Home Lake

Craig Romano | photos & story

Little Home Lake lies on a rugged and remote ridge tucked between some of the highest and most impressive peaks in the Olympic Mountains. Fed by springs and surrounded by clusters of subalpine firs and flowering meadows, Home’s setting is quite serene. But cast your attention beyond its placid waters and be blown away by the staggering beauty of its neighboring mountains—especially of 7,756-foot Mount Constance, whose sheer western rock face towers above the lake. It’s an awe-inspiring scene, and a side of the mountain so starkly different from the one presented to countless folks who have admired this familiar peak from the east.

It’s a long way to Home Lake making it a multi-day hike for all but the strongest hikers and trail runners. The lake can be approached via four routes with the approach starting on the Upper Dungeness Trail being the shortest and easiest (but not easy). That route along with the Tubal Cain Mine Trail approach involve long (and bumpy) drives for folks coming from the South Sound.

The Dosewallips-Constance Pass approach involves walking a long stretch of old road and a very steep lightly maintained trail. My preferred route to Home is via the Upper Big Quilcene River Trail to Marmot Pass. While this means enduring a busy trail for a few miles, you’re rewarded with exceptional views and several excellent campsites along the way if the 11 mile route to the lake is too much to do in one day.

The Upper Big Quilcene River Trail enters the 44,258-acre Buckhorn Wilderness, the largest roadless area within the Olympic National Forest. The trail starts off gently traversing magnificent stands of primeval forest along the churning waters of the Big Quilcene River. You’ll cross many side creeks along the way. Lack of water is not an issue on this route. After passing Shelter Rock Camp, the trail steeply climbs away from the river to begin traversing open avalanche chutes and scree slopes offering good views of the rugged surroundings. Keep climbing—it only gets better. At just shy of five miles the trail reaches busy Camp Mystery set in a grove of Alaska yellow cedars and subalpine firs. Its springs are a great place to refill water bottles.

The trails now leaves the forest for subalpine meadows which burst with wildflowers through the summer. Watch for scurrying ground squirrels, languid marmots, and docile deer. At 5.3 miles, crest 5,950-foot Marmot Pass and savor the excellent view east to Hood Canal, Puget Sound, and the Cascades. Then gaze west towards the Dungeness Valley flanked by Mounts Mystery, Deception, and Walkinshaw; some of the highest summits in the Olympics.

From the pass, the Tubal Cain Trail veers right offering another albeit longer and more difficult approach to the pass. For Home Lake head left traversing open slopes granting sweeping views of a wall of craggy summits. Here in the Olympic rainshadow, the terrain is much drier than the rest of the Olympics.  Lodgepole and whitebark pines cling to the ridges and steep slopes.

Look for Clark’s nutcracker, a jay-like bird which feeds on pine nuts.  Listen for its raucous call, a rare sound in the Olympics.

The way now descends and traverses a steep slope that often harbors two steep (potentially dangerous) snowfields earlier in the summer. The trail then enters open pine forest and descends steeply. Remember—you’ll have to climb this stretch on your return. At just over 7 miles the trail reaches a junction with the Dungeness River Trail—the easiest approach to Home Lake.

Now continue left on the Home Lake Trail crossing a creek and entering an open basin littered with jumbled boulders. Here find Boulder Camp with its restored and historic shelter. This is a good place to set up camp for the night.

For Home Lake continue south climbing to a forested swale and soon reaching an unmarked junction. The trail left leads one mile to a 6,300-foot gap from where a steep scramble path drops 800 feet to the tiny Charlia Lakes tucked in a rugged cirque. It makes for a spectacular and challenging side trip.

Continue south traversing steep slopes sporting stunted trees. At 8.0 miles enter Olympic National Park. If you’re hiking with a dog, this is your turning around spot. From here the lightly used path skirts steep avalanche swept slopes and crosses several cascading creeks. The terrain opens up as the trail travels beneath the formidable towering and stark walls of 7,300-foot Warrior Peak and 7,756- Mount Constance, third highest peak in the Olympics. The trail descends and gets rougher traversing a sprawling boulder and talus field. The walking is slow over the jumbled mess coupled by an inclination to keep tilting your head upwards and pause in amazement.

After negotiating the rocky mess the trail once again climbs. It ducks into a forested area to skirt snowfields at the base of Constance.  At 10.5 miles and at an elevation of 5300 feet, reach Home Lake housed in a small basin beneath steep flowered slopes.

From its south shore enjoy home sweet views of Warrior Peak (named by celebrated climber Fred Beckey when he solo climbed it back in 1946). Lightly used camps (permits required) can be found on the wooded bluff above its western shore.

If you have any energy left, be sure to continue on the trail beyond the lake for another half mile climbing steeply up heather and flower fields to 5,800-foot Constance Pass. From here take in a breathtaking view of the Dosewallips Valley below and magnificent views of The Brothers, Mount Anderson, Mount La Crosse and a wide swath of the wild Olympic interior. Upon completing this hike, you just might be quoting a famous Dorothy with, “there’s no place like home!”

If you go:

Distance: 21.0 miles roundtrip
Elevation Gain: 5800 feet
High Point: 5350 feet
Difficulty: difficult
Snow free: July through October
Notes: Overnight camping permits required for Home Lake which is in Olympic National (acquire at Recreation.gov or from Wilderness Information Center in Port Angeles; https://www.nps.gov/olym/index.htm). Dogs are prohibited at Home Lake and in Olympic National Park. Campfires are prohibited Home Lake and above 3,500'. Dangerous steep snowfield just beyond Marmot Pass often lingers well into summer.
Trailhead Pass Needed: Northwest Forest Pass or Interagency Pass
GPS waypoints: Trailhead: N47 49.669, W123 02.445
Land Agency Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene; and Olympic National Park, Wilderness Information Center, Port Angeles, www.nps.gov/olym
Recommended Guidebooks: Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 3rd edition (Romano, Mountaineers Books) and Backpacking Washington 2nd edition (Romano, Mountaineers).
Trailhead directions: From Shelton, follow US 101 north for 48 miles turning right onto Penny Creek Road (about 1.5 miles south of Quilcene). After 1.5 miles bear left onto Big Quilcene River Road (FR 27) and follow this road for 9.3 miles turning left onto FR 2750. Continue 4.7 miles to the Upper Big Quilcene River Trailhead.
Trailhead facilities: privy

Crossing the Bar - McMicken Island

Craig Romano | Story & images

There are no bridges or causeways to little McMicken Island in Case Inlet. No ferry service either. But you don’t need a kayak or boat to visit. You can easily hike to this island which lies about 0.2 mile off of the eastern shore of Harstine Island. It’s all in the timing. 

When the tide is low, a tombolo (a sandbar connecting the island to the mainland—or in this case another island) is exposed allowing you dry foot access to the island. You then can hike the island’s small half mile trail, picnic in its small meadow, or explore big barnacle-encrusted rocks in its intertidal zone. Just mind the incoming tide lest you make a big splash on your island exodus.

Hit the Trail

The hike to little 11.5 acre McMicken Island begins from the 300-acre Harstine Island State Park. A former Washington DNR property, most of the old timber was logged off, but small groves of old-growth remains on the property.

You want to head to the park’s beach reachable by the two trails taking off south from the parking lot. Take the one on the eastern end of the lot (away from the kiosk) for the more direct route.

The trail heads towards Case Inlet soon reaching the edge of a 100 foot high forested bluff. Continue along the bluff taking in glimpses of the remote beach below. The way then descends into a cool and dark ravine graced with big cedars and firs and reaches a junction.

The trail to the right loops back to the other main trail leaving the parking lot. Consider taking it upon your return from McMicken Island.

Head left through a row of big cedars and via a series of steps descend deeper into the ravine. After crossing a little creek the way emerges on a deserted beach. Look directly across Case Inlet to Herron Island and the Key Peninsula. Then look south and spot McMicken Island set against a backdrop of big beautiful Mount Rainier. If the tide is high, you’ll have to wait to hike the beach as overhanging trees prohibit passage. But in a low tide, a big wide easy to walk beach awaits your footprints.

Walk for more than a mile undulating between cobbles, mud and sand. Watch for sand dollars scatted across the tide flats. Look too for eagles, herons and a myriad of seabirds. Harstine is a wet place and plenty of side creeks fan out on the beach. You should be able to keep your shoes dry, but a pair of waterproof boots is not a bad idea. The entire way to the tombolo is on public tidelands. But there is a parcel of private property located between two large state park properties abutting the shoreline. Respect posted private property.

The tombolo is pretty distinctive in low tides—fairly wide and several feet raised above inlet waters. In high tides it’s completely submerged, although breakers will help you locate its position. It’s really fun to hike it when a receding tide first reveals it. Tap your inner Moses and part the seas watching the land bridge emerge as you amble along it.

Reaching the island

Once across the .2 mile sandy strip, reach McMicken Island. All of the little island except for a small fenced parcel with a couple of cabins is state park property. The private holding belongs to the family that once owned the entire island. They sold the island to the state withholding this small lot. Please keep out of it. The rest of the island however you are free to explore.

At the island’s western end is a small picnic area in a grassy opening. Here find some rare Garry oaks growing on a low bluff above the surf. Near a composting toilet at the eastern edge of the field is a small nature trail. Hike it! It weaves a half mile through towering firs and madronas to blufftop views on the eastern end of the island.

Be sure to explore the rocky tide flats surrounding the island too, and check out the large erratics scattered about. There is a particularly large one on the south side of the island. Enjoy your island wanderings and explorations—more than likely sharing it with no more than just a couple of other happy hikers. And be sure to keep track of the time and incoming tide so you don’t get trapped on the island.

Places to Stay
Waterfront cabin located on Harstine Is with beach access and a panoramic view of the Puget Sound, Mt. Rainier and McMicken island. Check availability

Hike back to Harstine Island State Park and call it a day or consider walking some more. The park contains three miles of trails. They traverse thick fir forests and swampy cedar groves and are family and dog-friendly.

McMicken Island Notes:

Forest Setting with Beach Access
Cross the bridge to Harstine Is. and enjoy a beautiful and quiet retreat in the woods. Relax in the comfortably furnished cabin or enjoy exploring the 5 acre property with meandering trails through a lovely forest. Check availability

Distance: 4.0 miles round trip
Difficulty: easy, pay attention to tides! Hike is only possible in low tides. Consult tide tables and plan accordingly. Dogs permitted on leash.
Trailhead Pass Needed: Discover Pass

GPS Waypoints: Harstine Island State Park Trailhead: N47 15.737 W122 52.236 McMicken Island Trailhead: N47 14.865 W122 51.780

Features: Kid and dog friendly, beach hiking, undeveloped coastline, small island reached via a sandbar, good bird watching, sublime views of Mount Rainier over Case Inlet.

Trailhead directions: From Olympia, head north on US 101 to Olympic Highway (SR 3) Exit in Shelton. Then turn and follow SR 3 east for 11.0 miles. Turn right onto Pickering Road (Signed for Harstine Island) and drive 3.3 miles. Then bear left onto Harstine Bridge Road and come to a T-junction upon entering Harstine Island. Go left on North Island Drive and after 3.0 miles turn right at the island community hall onto East Harstine Island Road. Proceed for one mile and turn left onto Yates Road. Continue 0.9 mile and turn right into Harstine Island State Park. Reach trailhead parking in 0.2 mile.

5 amazing hikes around Hood Canal

Award winning local guidebook author, Craig Romano, shared 25 of his top area hikes with us in a handy “stuff-in-your-glovebox guide,” here are a few of the many hikes that are open and awaiting your adventure! Welcome to the #wildsideWA.

Tighten your laces!

1. Murhut Falls
(Olympic National Forest)

Hidden in a lush narrow ravine, Murhut Falls were long unknown to many in the outside world. But all that changed upon the construction of a well-built and easy to hike trail. This two-tiered waterfall that plummets 130 feet has become a favorite cascade for many Olympic Peninsula hikers. The trail starts by following an old well-graded logging road. As you work your way toward the falls, its roar will signal that you’re getting closer. Reach the trail’s end and behold the impressive falls crashing before you. The upper falls drops more than 100 feet while the lower one crashes about 30 feet.

• Difficulty: Easy, 300 feet elevation gain, 1.6 miles

• Permits: Not required

• Kid and Dog Friendly: Yes

2. DuckabusH River trail
(Olympic National Forest)

The Duckabush River starts in the heart of the Olympic Mountains and flows through a deep verdant valley on its way to Hood Canal. Duckabush River Trail travels near and along the river for more than 20 miles terminating at Marmot Lake in the heart of Olympic National Park. At a little over 3 miles you will come to a ledge with a spectacular view east down the river valley. On a clear day you can see all the way to the Cascades.

• Highlights: Old-growth forest, low elevation wilderness valley, backpacking opportunities

• Distance: Moderate, 10.6 miles R/T  Elevation gain: 2150 feet

• Permits: NW Forest Pass /Interagency Pass

• Kid & Dog Friendly: Yes

Duckabush River

3. LENA LAKES TRAIL
(OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST & PARK)

With all the fire activity this iconic trail system remains far removed from the bustle. The Lena Lakes are located above the Hamma Hamma valley. Despite having the same name, the two lakes have distinct differences. The lower lake is a simple, family and pet-friendly walk through old, tall trees in Olympic National Forest. The upper lake is a tough climb to a beautiful high area in Olympic National Park. The lower lake can be busy with hikers on a summer Saturday while the upper lake offers more solitude. Access to both lakes is the same.

• Highlights: Old-growth forest, water!

• Distance: Lower: 6 miles R/T; Upper: 14 miles R/T

• Elevation gain: Lower: 1225 feet; Upper : 4100 feet

• Difficulty: Lower Lake: moderate; Upper Lake: strenuous  Permits: Northwest Forest or Interagency Pass

• Hiking Season: Lower Lake: March to Dec; Upper Lake: July to November

• Notes: Camping (no fires) at Upper Lake requires National Park Wilderness Camping Permit (contact Olympic National Park, Wilderness Information Center (360) 565-3100)

• Kid-Friendly: Yes Lower Lake; no Upper Lake   Dog-Friendly: yes Lower Lake; prohibited Upper Lake

4. spider lake
(Olympic National Forest)

A long slender lake tucked within a narrow valley on the Skokomish–Satsop River divide, Spider is graced with groves of ancient giant old-growth forest. The trail around the lake is a remnant of a longer trail that once traversed miles of primeval trees. Most of those trees have since been logged, and the trail truncated to the lake. The remaining trail has since been restored and the forests on the surrounding hillsides are regenerating nicely.

Highlights: Old-growth forest  Distance: 2 mile R/T Difficulty: Easy Elevation gain: 250 feet 
Permits: None
Kid and Dog Friendly: Yes

5. Schafer Forest Trail
(Schafer State Park)

Tucked along the East Fork Satsop River in extreme southwestern Mason County, Schafer State Park is off-the-beaten path. While this park is far from population centers, it was a thriving spot for many years. In 1872 the Schafer Family came from Wisconsin to homestead here. Three of their sons, Peter, Albert and Hubert begin logging the homestead in the 1890s. They donated this parcel to the state in 1924, and it continued to host many large company gatherings as well as other groups. Today the park is much quieter, but families still come here to gather. The park’s trails however tend to remain pretty peaceful.

Highlights: Historic homestead; trail along Satsop River; salmon spawning creek and estuary        
Distance: 1.3 mile loop Elevation gain: 75 feet
Difficulty: Easy Permits: Discover Pass Kid & Dog Friendly: Yes

This is only a SMALL sampling of the amazing hikes available in the area! Check out the hikes link for a full list of places to explore, visit the waterfalls trail for a comprehensive list of year-round waterfall destinations — or pick up or download a copy of Romano’s Top 25 Hikes!

Head to the Mount Walker Summit

Craig Romano | story

The Easternmost peak in the Olympic Mountains, Mount Walker offers a commanding view of Dabob Bay sparkling below and the Seattle skyline shimmering across Puget Sound. The close up of massive Mount Constance, the third highest peak in the Olympic Mountains is pretty darn impressive too. But the real joy to hiking this trail is ambling through its profuse clusters of rhododendrons. Hit the trail to Mount Walker in May or June for an ascent up a purple mountain majesty!

Hit the Trail

While a dirt road winds four miles up the north and east side of Mount Walker allowing folks to drive to the views—hiking to them is far more rewarding. The trail ascends the mountain’s thickly forested west side far away from the road. But if the thought of busting your rump up a mountain only to be greeted by fresh-smelling folks who just popped out of their vehicle doesn’t appeal to you—then consider a hike up Walker when the road is gated and closed to vehicles. It’s also during that time that you can consider a loop hike by returning on the road.

On the rare occasions that snow accumulates on this low Olympic peak, the road makes for an excellent snowshoe or cross country ski route.

From the unimposing trailhead immediately begin climbing through a tunnel of rhododendrons under a uniform canopy of second-growth cedars and hemlocks. Washington’s state flower, the Pacific (or coast) rhododendron, grows in profusion along the steep dry slopes of Mount Walker. For much of the year the rhodies merely add a layer of dark green to the forest understory.

Pacific Rhododendron

But come late spring this hardy shrub begins to blossom, speckling the surrounding firs and hemlocks with rosy-purple bouquets. By June, vibrant violet bell-shaped blossoms ring throughout the emerald forest.

Interestingly, that although the Pacific Rhododendron is Washington’s state flower, it’s not very widespread in the Evergreen State. It primarily grows along the east slopes of the Olympics near Hood Canal, the Kitsap Peninsula and a few pockets on the western slopes of the Cascades.

It’s far more distributed in Oregon and grows profusely in the state’s southern Coastal Mountains as well as along California’s north coast. A clover, a flower more widespread in Washington, but not nearly as grand and showy as the rhododendron, almost became the state’s official flower back in 1892. But the rhodie overwhelmingly won the vote by thousands to represent Washington in the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair. It wasn’t until 1959 however when the state legislature made the rhodie officially the state’s flower. Mount Walker is one of the best places in Washington to appreciate this beautiful flower.

The trail climbs steeply. Occasionally take a break and look up to see if you can locate any of the old wire and insulators that once serviced a fire tower on the summit. After about 1.5 miles small ledges begin to break the monotony of the forest and tease with limited views. The grade then eases. Finally after 2 miles and nearly 2000 feet of climbing reach the North Summit viewpoint, which was the site of a fire lookout from 1931—1967.

Enjoy good but limited views west and north here. Then head to the South Summit (dogs must be leashed at the summits) by walking the graveled Summit Road for 0.4 mile to a picnic area and then following a 0.1 mile trail to a breathtaking panoramic view of Puget Sound.

Stare straight down to Quilcene Bay, Dabob Bay and the Toanodos Peninsula. Across the sparkling waters Green and Gold Mountains rise on the Kitsap Peninsula. Locate the Seattle skyline east of Kitsap. When clouds are absent or high in the sky, Mount Rainier adds a snowy backdrop to this beautiful scene. And if you’re here in June, the view will be framed with fragrant purple boughs.

Mount Walker

Distance: 5.0 miles roundtrip
Elevation Gain: 2050 feet
High Point: 2805 feet
Difficulty: difficult
Snow free: April—December
Trailhead Pass Needed: None

Notes: From November 1 until March 31 FR 2730 is gated. During this time park away from the gate near US 101 and walk .3 mile to the trailhead. Do not block the gate, park in the road, or block any private driveways.

GPS waypoints: Trailhead: N47 46.554 W122 54.854 | Summit picnic area: N47 47.100 W122 54.077

Features: Exceptional views of Hood Canal; historic fire tower site; one of the finest trails in the Olympics for rhododendron blooms

Land Agency Contact:

Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene, (360) 765-2200, http://www.fs.usda.gov/olympic

Recommended Guidebook:

Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd edition (Romano, Mountaineers Books)

Trailhead directions:

From Shelton follow US 101 north for 47 miles. From Quilcene drive US 101 south for 5 miles) to just north of milepost 300. Turn right onto Mount Walker Road (FR 2730) and proceed 0.3 mile to the trailhead.

Guest Columnist:

Craig Romano

From forest ranger, to history teacher and now a full-time outdoor writer, Romano developed a love of the natural world growing up in rural New Hampshire. Romano has written more than 25 outdoor guide books including "Winter Hikes of Western Washington” (Mountaineers Books, 2009) and "Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula." He lives in Mt. Vernon with his wife and son.

A Guide to 25 Waterfalls from Canal to Coast and points between

When Craig Romano agreed to share with us a few of his favorite waterfalls in the Pacific Coastal region of Washington, we were frankly thrilled. If you’re looking for straight details on Northwest hikes and wilderness destinations — and fun facts - Craig is the guy to call.

Craig has written more than 20 hiking guidebooks including Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd Edition which includes details for popular and little known hikes across the Peninsula. An avid hiker, runner, paddler, and cyclist, Craig is currently working on Urban Trails Vancouver USA (2020); Backpacking Washington 2nd Edition (2021); and Day Hiking Central Cascades 2nd Edition (2022). He is also a featured columnist for the Fjord and Explore Hood Canal.

Enchanted Valley | Craig Romano photo

Why we are so keen about our falls?

As storms from the Pacific Ocean move across the peninsula, they crash into the Olympics and are forced to release moisture in the impact. Consequentially, the clouds release massive amounts of moisture (up to 170 inches annually) in the coastal side of the range – creating the “rain shadow effect.”

The massive rainfall has given life blood to the hanging mosses of the perpetually wet Northwest rainforests – Hoh and Quinault. On top the Olympic Mountains this moisture lands as snow frosting the peaks with as much as 35 feet each year.

Each spring the snow melts and creates icy run-off. Mix in a little more rainfall and the result is a spectacular waterfalls ring envelops the base of Olympic range.

Pacific coastal waterfalls are gorgeous year round but tend to be most spectacular in early spring or during the autumn rainy season.

Let’s go Chasing Waterfalls

1. Tumwater Falls

Olympia Metro | Located minutes from Olympia, Tumwater Falls is an iconic landmark near the state capital.  These thundering multi-tiered showy falls along the Deschutes River are located within a 15-acre park created on land donated by the Olympia Brewing Company.  Meander along manicured paths and saunter over foot bridges and under historic road bridges taking in a little history along with the sensational scenery.

At the base of the upper falls admire a replica of the famous bridge that once appeared on the labels of Olympia beer spanning the river above the lower falls. Walk trails along the gorge between the falls and admire deep pools, eddies and jumbled boulders. Take time to read the informative panels on Tumwater—Washington’s oldest permanent non-Native settlement on Puget Sound. Let’s Go!

2. Kennedy Creek Falls

Kamilche, South of Shelton | From its origin at Summit Lake in the Black Hills, Kennedy Creek flows just shy of 10 miles to Oyster Bay tumbling over a two-tiered waterfall along the way. Reaching these pretty falls involves a half day hike on a closed-to-vehicles logging road through patches of cuts and mature standing timber. Start walking across a recent cut. In about a mile reach a grove of mature timber and the Kennedy Creek Salmon Trail which opens in the fall for salmon viewing and field trips. Keep walking on the main road avoiding diverting roads. The route leaves state land for private timberland and rolls along. Take in decent views of the surrounding foothills. At 2.8 miles (just before crossing a creek) follow an obvious but unmarked trail to the right. This path can be muddy and slick during periods of heavy rainfall. The trail descends to a grove of big cedars, firs and yews—and the falls. Here Kennedy Creek tumbles over an ancient basalt flow. The upper falls are small but quite pretty. The lower falls are difficult to see as they tumble into a narrow chasm of columnar basalt.  Let’s Go!

3. Vincent Creek Falls

South Hood Canal, Skokomish Valley | While Vincent Creek Falls are quite stunning crashing 250 feet into the South Fork Skokomish River in a deep narrow canyon; the High Steel Bridge which allows for their viewing is even more spectacular. The 685-foot long bridge spans 375 feet above the canyon. Walk across the bridge but use caution along its north side where the guardrail is only 3 feet tall. The arched truss steel bridge was built in 1929 originally for a logging railroad. In 1950 it was converted for road use. It is the 14th highest bridge in the country. Your heart is sure to pound as you walk upon its airy span. Eventually Vincent Creek Falls comes into view. Through a series of falls, Vincent Creek drops 250 feet down a canyon wall into the roaring South Fork Skokomish River. Walk all the way across the bridge if you plan on capturing the falls in their entirety in a photo. Let’s Go!

Big Creek | Craig Romano Photo

4. Big Creek Cascades

Lake Cushman Area, Hood Canal | Amble on a circuitous route in the Big Creek drainage within the shadows of Mount Ellinor; and delight in a series of small tumbling cascades. This wonderful loop utilizes old logging roads, new trails and a series of beautifully built bridges. It was constructed by an all-volunteer crew that continues to improve and maintain this excellent family and dog-friendly loop. Starting from the Big Creek Campground, follow the Upper Big Creek Loop Trail to Big Creek and the first of several sturdy bridges along the way. After a short climb you’ll reach the Creek Confluence Trail which drops to the confluence of the tumbling Big and North Branch Creeks.  The main loop continues to cross North Branch Creek on a good bridge. Just beyond it crosses Big Creek on a new bridge above a gorgeous cascade. The loop then descends skirting big boulders and passing good views of roaring Big Creek. It crosses a couple more cascading creeks before traversing attractive forest and returning to the campground.  Let’s Go!

5. Staircase Rapids

Lake Cushman Area, Hood Canal — Currently Closed until mid-September

This loop involves a section of an historic route across the Olympic Mountains to a suspension bridge spanning the North Fork Skokomish River near a series of thundering rapids. Cross the North Fork Skokomish on a solid bridge and follow a trail that was once part of the original O’Neil Mule Trail. In 1890 Lieutenant Joseph O’Neil accompanied by a group of scientists led an Army expedition across the Olympic Peninsula. Among his party’s many findings was a realization that this wild area deserved to be protected as a national park. March up alongside the roiling river, passing big boulders and a series of roaring rapids. The rapids’ name come from a cedar staircase O’Neil built over a rocky bluff to get past them. Follow the bellowing river from one mesmerizing spot to another before reaching a sturdy suspension bridge spanning the wild waterway. Cross the river and complete this delightful loop by now heading downriver following the North Fork Skokomish River Trail back to the Ranger Station. Let’s Go!

Hamma Hamma | George Stenberg photo

6. Hamma Hamma Falls

Hamma Hamma River Valley, Hood Canal | Talk about a bridge over troubled waters. From the Mildred Lakes Trailhead walk across the high concrete bridge at the road’s end. You no doubt heard the roar of the falls when you drove across it. Now peer over the bridge and witness the cataracts responsible for the racket. 

Directly below, the Hamma Hamma River careens through a tight rocky chasm. These impressive falls are two-tiered crashing more than 80 vertical feet. The road spans directly above the upper and smaller of the falls. The overhead view is pretty decent, but the lower and larger falls are more difficult to fully see. A very rudimentary path leads along cliff edges for better viewing, but it’s slick, exposed and treacherous.It’s best to experience the falls from the safety of the bridge. During periods of high water flow you’ll get the added bonus of feeling the falls too thanks to a rising mist. On the drive back look for a couple of pull-offs providing views of secondary falls along the Hamma Hamma,  Let’s Go!

7. Murhut Falls

Duckabush River Valley, Hood Canal | Hidden in a lush narrow ravine and once accessed by a treacherous path, Murhut Falls were long unknown to many in the outside world. But now a well-built trail allows hikers of all ages and abilities to admire this beautiful 130-foot two-tiered waterfall. The trail starts by following an old well-graded logging road. It was past logging in this area that led to the discovery of these falls. The old road ends after a short climb of about 250 feet to a low ridge. The trail then continues on a good single track slightly descending into a damp, dark, cedar-lined ravine. As you work your way toward the falls, its roar will signal you’re getting closer. Reach the trail’s end and behold the impressive falls crashing before you. The upper falls drops more than 100 feet while the lower one crashes about 30 feet. Blossoming Pacific rhododendrons lining the trail in May and June make the hike even more delightful. Let’s Go!

Rocky Brook Falls

8. Rocky Brook Falls

Dosewallips River Valley, Hood Canal | One of the tallest waterfalls on the Peninsula, Rocky Brook Falls is also among the prettiest. Follow the trail past a small hydroelectric generating building and come to the base of the stunning towering falls fanning over ledges into a large splash pool surrounded by boulders. This classic horsetail waterfall crashes more than 200 feet from a small hanging valley above. While a penstock diverts water from the brook for electricity production, the flow over the falls is almost always pretty strong. Like all waterfalls, these too are especially impressive during periods of heavy rainfall. On warm summer days the falls become a popular destination for folks seeking some heat relief.  And while many waterways east of the Mississippi River are called brooks, creek is the preferred name in the west. There are only a few waterways on the Peninsula called brooks, and they were more than likely named by someone who hailed from back east.  Let’s Go!

9. Dosewallips Falls

Dosewallips River Valley, Hood Canal | This spectacular waterfall used to be easily reached by vehicle. But the upper Dosewallips Road has been closed to vehicles since 2002 after winter storms created a huge washout that has yet to be repaired. Now to reach this waterfall you must hike or mountain bike the closed road. Walk past the road barrier and immediately come to the washout and a bypass trail. Steeply climb on the riverbank above the slide. Then descend back to the road and walk along the churning river. The road then pulls away from the river, passes a campground and climbs. The river now far below in a canyon is out of sight, but not out of sound. Pass beneath ledges and cross cascading Bull Elk Creek on a bridge. At 3.9 miles in a recent burn zone enter Olympic National Park. Cross tumbling Constance Creek on a bridge and continue climbing passing a big overhanging boulder. Then descend and skirt beneath a big ledge coming to the base of dramatic 100-foot plus Dosewallips Falls. Admire the raging cascade’s hydrological force—it’s mesmerizing. Let’s Go!

10. Fallsview Falls

Big Quilcene River Valley | As far as cascades go, Fallsview Falls lacks the “Wow factor.” However the canyon these falls tumble into is pretty impressive. And if you plan your visit for late spring, blossoming rhododendrons line the trail and frame the view with brilliant pinks and purples. The trail to the falls is short, easy and ADA accessible. Follow the 0.2 mile loop to a fenced promontory above a tight canyon embracing the Big Quilcene River. Gaze straight down to the roiling river. Then cast your glance directly across the canyon to an unnamed creek cascading 100 feet into it. By late summer it just trickles—but during the rainy season the falls put on a little show. If you want to stretch your legs some more afterward, you can follow a trail into the little canyon and hike along the frothing river.  Let’s Go!

And 15 more…

For a day trip, weekend, or a month-long adventure – the Olympic Peninsula is a fantastic place to get away and enjoy nature – and waterfalls! It’s not just 1000’s of waterfalls, there are countless lakes, rivers, streams and trails to suit every ability level.  Embraced by the Pacific Ocean on the west, the Strait of Juan de Fuca on the north, and the Hood Canal on the east, it is famed for being home to Olympic National Park, more than 600 miles of hiking trails and 73 miles of pristine ocean wilderness beaches.

The Olympic Peninsula hosts activities for families and outdoor enthusiasts alike, attracting visitors from near and far. Start planning your next adventure!

Click here for a complete list of all 25 waterfalls on the Olympic Peninsula curated by Craig!

Elk Lakes Trail

By Craig Romano, Guide book author and guest columnist

Named for one of the Olympic Peninsula’s most majestic animals, the two small Elk Lakes located within the Hamma Hamma River Valley offer quiet wanderings and a chance to see their namesake. The Elk Lakes offer a great alternative to the nearby oft-crowded Lena Lakes. While this hike is short, the lake’s tranquil shoreline and surrounding old-growth forest invite lingering. Bird watching is good as well as fishing for rainbow trout. Rhododendrons add colorful bouquets to the forest in spring, while maples and cottonwoods brighten the forest with golden touches come autumn.

Hit the Trail

You can easily reach the lakes from a short spur off of Forest Road 2480. But I prefer hiking to the lakes following along a remnant of an old trail along Jefferson Creek. This gives you a longer and varied hike and a better appreciation for the area’s rugged landscape and how human activity has greatly impacted it. Reaching the trailhead for this approach however is via a rough road that only high clearance vehicles can negotiate. If that is not an option, you can always park at the beginning of the road and walk FR 2421 for 1.6 miles to the trailhead. The road traverses a recent cut offering excellent views of the Hamma Hamma Valley, making the extra mileage interesting.

The trail begins at a bend in the road and heads into a forest that was recently burned. In the early part of the last century the entire Jefferson Creek Valley was draped in old-growth forest. After World War II and up to the 1990s the area was intensively logged leaving only remnant stands of old-growth forest and just a small stretch of was once a long trail in the Eastern Olympics. But what survived made a delightful short hike in an area often overlooked by many hikers opting instead for the nearby Lena Lakes.

The beautiful old-growth forest remaining around the Elk Lakes almost entirely went up in flames in the Maple Fire of 2018. A group of timber poachers harvesting mature big-leaf maples in the area set the area ablaze when they set fire to a wasp nest in the base of a tree. The fire quickly spread torching 3300 acres and costing $4.5 million to combat. Two of the poachers were ultimately caught, brought to trial and given prison terms. Timber poaching remains a serious problem on the Olympic Peninsula. The Forest Service lacks the staff and resources to address it.

While the fire did some damage to the Elk Lake area, thankfully many of the older trees survived. Unfortunately the fire took a major toll on nearby Jefferson Ridge rendering the trail to its old lookout site nearly impassable now. Such a shame as that trail too offered a quiet alternative to many of the area’s nearby crowded trails.

Head up the trail traversing a dry hillside, several hundred feet above roaring Jefferson Creek. Born in the snowfields of Mount Ellinor and her rugged neighbors; the creek crashes through a steep and narrow canyon here before reaching the Hamma Hamma River. Pass through a mosaic burn on an up and down course before reaching cool old-growth forest.

The way then soon reaches a junction. Heading left will bring you to the upper trailhead. But for this suggested hike, you’ll be returning from that direction, so continue hiking straight through a grove of monster cedars coming to Elk Lake. Depending on the season the lake may be a wet grassy swale or a pretty reflecting pool. Regardless of water level, plenty of birdlife will be present.

Continue along the western shore before wandering along Jefferson Creek through more impressive old growth. The trail then terminates on FR 2401. You can retrace your steps, but I prefer making a loop by following the road left for 0.8 mile to another trail just after crossing Cedar Creek. But before heading down that trail back to Elk Lake, head right 0.2 mile on an oft overlooked and slightly brushy trail to pretty little Upper Elk Lake. This placid body of water offers beautiful reflections of nearby ridges and the surrounding forest.

Once you visit the Upper Lake pick up the trail near Cedar Creek and slightly descend to Elk Lake now hiking along its eastern shoreline. Pass some more big trees and come to a great shoreline area for casting a line or just admiring the area’s beauty. Then reach another junction.

The way right climbs and soon reaches the main trailhead on FR 2401. Continue left, soon crossing Jefferson Creek on large rocks. In spring and other periods of high water this may be difficult forcing you to retreat the way you came for a longer than anticipated hike. Just beyond the crossing reach a familiar junction. Here head right above the crashing creek retuning to your start.

The details

• Distance: 4.5 miles roundtrip

• Elevation Gain: 700 feet

• High Point: 1200 feet

• Difficulty: moderate

• Snow free: year round Trailhead Pass Needed: None

Notes: Road to Lower Trailhead (Elk Branch) is extremely rough requiring a high clearance vehicle.

GPS waypoints: Lower Trailhead: N47 34.759 W123 07.222

Main Trailhead: N47 34.267 W123 08.008

Features: kid-friendly, dog friendly, old-growth, rhododendrons, bird-watching, fishingLand Agency Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene, (360) 765-2200, fs.usda.gov/olympic

Recommended Guidebook: Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd edition (Craig Romano, Mountaineers Books)

Trailhead directions: From Hoodsport travel north on US 101 north for 13.7 miles turning left at milepost 318 onto FR 25 (Hamma Hamma River Road). Then continue west for 6.4 miles and turn left onto FR 2480. Cross the Hamma Hamma River and in 0.2 mile turn right onto unsigned FR 2421 for the Lower Trailhead (high clearance only). Follow this rough road 1.6 miles to a pullout on your left where the road makes a sharp turn right. This is the trailhead. For the Main Trailhead, pass the FR 2421 junction and continue on FR 2480 for 3 more miles. Then turn right onto FR 2401, and proceed 2.5 miles to a spur on your right leading 0.1 to the Main Trailhead. The spur is steep and can be rough. You can park alongside FR 2401 and walk the spur to the trailhead.

Do the Dosewallips

Craig Romano, author

Dosewallips State Park consists of more than 1000 acres of prime wildlife habitat along the Dosewallips River at its delta on Hood Canal. Well-known for its year-round family-friendly campground (complete with yurts) and excellent fishing and shell fishing opportunities, the park also contains a wonderful network of hiking trails. Saunter out to wildlife rich tidal wetlands on Hood Canal or explore quiet groves of mature forest graced with thickets of rhododendrons and cascading creeks. Hike along the glacier-fed Dosewallips River too. And retrace the route of an old railroad grade while sleuthing for relics of the area’s bygone logging days.

Photo credit: Craig Romano

Hit the Trail

There are nearly five miles of trails in Dosewallips Park to explore with your family. Most of them are interconnected allowing for some loop options. An excellent 3.6 mile loop around a good portion of the park’s periphery can be made by following the Maple Valley and Steam Donkey Trails. 

Start this loop hike from the ranger station by walking a short distance northwest up the dirt road signed for the Maple Valley Trail. After passing through the Meadow Group Camp, reach the Maple Valley Trailhead. Now head up the trail and soon come along the Dosewallips River. 

Legend has it that Dos-wail-opsh was a Twana Indian who was turned into a mountain, forming the source of the Dosewallips River. From his lofty position in the Olympic Mountain wilderness, this transformed Native American did well by creating one of the peninsula’s most wild and scenic rivers. 

The Twana once had a village at the mouth of the river on Hood Canal. In 1855 the Treaty of Point No Point resulted in many of the Twana people being relocated to the small Skokomish Reservation located at the mouth of the South Fork of the Skokomish River.

Hike along the river through a forest of cedars, cottonwoods and of course—maples, both bigleaf and vine. In fall the maples add touches of gold to the forest. Scan the forest for elk. They are prolific in this area and are frequently sighted in the state park. If you don’t see any of this hike, you’ll probably see plenty of signs of their presence.

Photo Credit: Craig Romano

Continue along the trail hugging a steep slope above a river channel. The way then reaches a junction with the Rhody Cut-off Trail. You’ll be returning on that trail for this loop—so continue right. The way now gently descends to a bridged crossing of cascading Phantom Creek. 

Then it’s time to climb again as the trail ascends a steep bluff and moves away from the river. Washington State Parks has been working with several agencies to greatly increase the size of this park to protect more riverfront. Once public access can be secured, there are plans to construct a trail along the river from the state park to national forest land about five miles upriver. Much of the new protected river corridor will be included in the state park.

Photo Credit: Craig Romano

The Maple Valley Trail now bends southward skirting an old cut along the park’s current boundary. At about one mile from your start it reaches a fire road. The road can be used as a short-cut back to the campground.

To continue the loop proceed straight on the Steam Donkey Trail. Steam donkeys were steam powered winches used by loggers in the early twentieth century for yarding and loading downed timber. 

Here as well as throughout much of the region timber was transported by rail to sawmills or to docks where it was floated to mills

Photo Credit: Craig Romano

Running parallel to the Steam Donkey Trail and reached by walking just a short distance east on the Fire Road is the Izett Grade Trail. This trail follows a half mile stretch of an old railroad grade. The Izett Logging Company had constructed five miles of railroad in this area  in the late 1890s. Logs were then transported to Hood Canal and floated to a mill in Seabeck. The Izett Grade Trail eventually reconnects with the Steam Donkey Trail and shortens the loop by only 0.1 mile.

The Steam Donkey trail continues south along the state park boundary gently climbing through maturing second growth. The trail passes a large fir struck by lightning in 2001 before crossing Phantom Creek. It then comes to a small bridge whimsically named the On Your Arse Crossing. The way then spans another cascading creek before cresting a ridge. It then begins a long gentle descent following an old road grade through maturing timber. After passing the southern end of the Izett Grade Trail the loop reaches a small dammed pool that once provided water to power the Izett Logging Company’s steam donkeys. 

Photo Credit: Craig Romano

The trail then once again comes to the Fire Road. Cross the road and continue straight passing part of another stretch of old railroad bed. The logging railroads here were decommissioned in 1913 shortly after the logging company’s founder James Izett passed away. The trail next descends into a gulch coming to a junction. You can shorten the loop by heading right reaching the park road after crossing the short metal bridge

The recommended loop heads left now following the Rhody Cut-off Trail. It soon makes a bridged crossing of a creek shaded by attractive cedars; then veers left at a junction where a spur trail heads to a group camp. The trail then climbs a low ridge draped with rhododendrons. You’ll want to return to this stretch of trail in May or June. The Rhody-Cut-off Trail then loses elevation returning to the Maple Valley Trail. Return to your start by retracing a short stretch of trail to your right.

If you’ve got time and energy leftover, head over to the park’s North Tidal Trail. Follow this 0.3 mile trail to an observation deck near where the Dosewallips River drains into Hood Canal, creating a productive delta and estuary. Scan this ecologically rich ecosystem for seals and a wide array of birds.

Additional Details 

Dog welcome but must be leashed while on the trail.

Land Agency Contact:
Dosewallips State Park

Recommended Map: Green Trails Olympic Mountains East 168S; State park map available at park ranger station.

Recommended Guidebooks: Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd edition (Romano, Mountaineers Books) 

Trailhead Directions: From Shelton, drive US 101 north for 40 miles (From Quilcene drive US 101 south for 12 miles) to Dosewallips State Park entrance at milepost 307. Turn left (west) into camping entrance and proceed .3 mile to parking near ranger station. 

Day-use parking is also available at picnic area and North Tidal Area Trailhead, trailhead facilities here include: privy, picnic area, ranger station, campground, and potable water.

Wagonwheel Lake Hike features alpine views and solitude

By Craig Romano
Craig Romano, is an author of more than twenty hiking guidebooks along with Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd Edition (Mountaineers Books), including 136 hikes on the Olympic Peninsula. craigromano.com

Utilizing tight switchbacks and no switchbacks at all, the Wagonwheel trail makes a grueling ascent up steep forested slopes. It’s a workout. There are some good, albeit limited views along the way. But you’ll probably feel short changed for the effort. In that case, summon your second wind and continue hiking heading up even steeper terrain to emerge at an unassuming peak granting sweeping views of craggy peaks, deep valleys, and some of the wildest and rugged terrain in the state.

"Old-growth forest, solitude, and alpine views await after a grueling ascent."

Hit the Trail

Sharing its start with the Staircase Rapids Loop and North Fork Skokomish River, don’t fret if the parking lot is packed. Almost all of those vehicles belong to hikers heading to those two other trails. Why not Wagonwheel Lake? Perhaps the sign at the trailhead does its job discouraging folks. It states that you’ll climb 3,200 feet in 2.9 miles followed by “Very Steep!” But even that assessment doesn’t correctly portray the magnitude of steepness  of this trail. 

The trail is gentle for a short stretch at the beginning and ending but still leaving nearly 2,800 feet of elevation gain within two miles. Yep—that’s very steep indeed!

Regardless of the fair warning, many hikers intent on reaching the lake ignore it or underestimate their fitness level and attempt this trail. And all too many of them poop out resigning themselves to accept that despite the trail’s short length—elevation gain can be a leveler! But for those of you who accept this hike as a challenge, take note. 

The lake isn’t exactly one of the most stunning places in the Olympics. You may question if it was worth all of that sweat and toil. If your goal was a good workout in a natural environment—or perhaps a chance to commune deep in the woods all alone—then, yes it was worth it.

If it’s breathtaking views you are after, they are there, but you’re going to have to work a little bit more!

Beyond the forested basin cradling little Wagonwheel Lake you can follow a path another .4 mile and 700' of climbing to an open 4,755' knoll straddling the Mount Skokomish Wilderness-Olympic National Park Boundary. 

From this spot framed with silver snags and clusters of firs you can enjoy excellent views of nearby Mount Lincoln, Mount Stone, Mount Skokomish, Mount Ellinor, Mount Washington; and the vast emerald ridges dividing the South and North Skokomish River valleys. 

There are good views too across the North Fork Skokomish River Valley to Wonder Mountain, Five Ridge Peak, Six Ridge and other little known and little explored peaks. A region that pretty much looks as it did when Lieutenant Joseph P O’Neil explored this part of the Olympic interior more than 120 years ago. 

Along the Way

Despite its grueling statistics, Wagonwheel Lake gets its fair share of visitors and attempted visitors. The trail starts in a lush understory of shoulder high ferns and salal. 

The grade at first is deceptive, the going pretty easy. Keep a lookout to your right for an old mine shaft. Then prepare to do some serious climbing. The trail commences in a series of short tight switchbacks relentlessly ascending steep slopes. 

Wind through mostly uniform seond-growth fir forest, a testament to a past disturbance—most likely a fire.

Among the monotonous make up of trees look for a few western white pines as well as Pacific rhododendrons. In late spring and early summer this flowering shrub, Washington’s state flower adds brilliant pinks and purples to the verdant surroundings. The monotony of the brutal climb however, is rarely broken. 

At about 1.7 miles the trail comes to a small ledge. Here take a break and enjoy a window view of the valley below. Then commence climbing. The forest transitions from fir to hemlock. The trail and to your chagrin, steepens. Now foregoing switchbacks, the way takes an even more direct approach to subduing elevation. If you’ve hiked in the Adirondacks or White Mountains back east, the steepness of this trail compares to those areas where switchbacks are only spoken about as something that exists out west to make hiking easier.

After what feels like forever, the trail miraculously levels out. Now catch your breath, wipe your brow, swig some water and enjoy easier walking through old-growth fir and hemlock. The trail next traverses a steep slope breaking out onto a brushy avalanche chute. Work your way across slumping tread enjoying views to the northwest of Mount Lincoln and the serrated Sawtooth Range.

The trail then re-enters cool evergreen forest and crosses Wagonwheel Lake’s outlet creek. Just a hop, skip, and jump away lies the little lake in forested bowl. A small bench above the lake makes for a good place to collapse. But if you have any oomph left, locate a primitive path taking off from the main trail at the lake. It goes for a half mile straight up the 4,755-foot knoll to the north. The officially unnamed peak straddles the Olympic National Park and Mount Skokomish Wilderness in Olympic National Forest. From this peak’s meadows punctuated with silver snags enjoy a breathtaking panorama that includes the following prominent peaks: Pershing, Washington, Ellinor, Copper, Lincoln, Skokomish, Wonder, and the Brothers. Little Wagonwheel Lake sparkles below. Rest up and prepare your knees for the brutal descent. 

For more trails and information check out Explore Hood Canal’s list of area hikes or visit the Explore Hood Canal Hiking Map.

Bird’s Eye View from Mount Townsend

Story & Photos: Craig Romano

Mount Townsend | photo credit Craig Romano

Rising more than 6200' at the northeast edge of the Olympic Mountains, Mount Townsend is a prominent landmark — and one of the region’s most hiked peaks. Its broad open summit affords sweeping views of some of the highest and craggiest peaks in the Olympics and a myriad of islands, straits, bays and peninsulas below. Stand atop this mountain on a clear day and watch ferries and vessels ply the shimmering waters below.  Marvel at the Seattle skyline against a backdrop of snowy Cascade Mountains dominated by big, beautiful Mount Rainier. Ascend Townsend in the summer and be greeted by a brilliant array of wildflowers swaying in the alpine breezes.

Hit the Trail

There are four ways you can hike to get to the summit of Mount Townsend and all of them offer great views and a good workout. The most popular route to the mountain is the Mount Townsend Trail from its upper trailhead. An out and back via this route clocks in at 8.2 miles with just shy of 3000 feet of elevation gain. But if you don’t mind a slightly longer hike with a little more elevation gain, consider starting from the Lower Trailhead.

Throughout much of this hiking season you just may have to start from the Lower Trailhead as the Forest Service works on the upper trailhead access road rendering it off limits while under construction.

The Lower Trailhead start will add two more miles to your total roundtrip and another 500 feet of elevation gain. But it’s worth it. The way traverses a beautiful grove of primeval forest and passes by tiny Sink Lake where Townsend Creek performs a disappearing act. After one mile of pleasant walking you’ll emerge at the upper trailhead. As you approach the trailhead what may be an unsightly situation. The lack of an outhouse at such a popular trailhead as led many to violate leave no trace principles with some bad bathroom etiquette. Perhaps a note to the Forest Service in support of a trailhead privy can help rectify this situation.

From the Upper Trailhead, follow a well-beaten path and steadily ascend. The trail weaves through a stately grove of Douglas-fir and western hemlock adorned with Pacific rhododendrons. Time your hike for late May through June and enjoy brilliant blossoms. After a half mile enter the Buckhorn Wilderness protecting more than 44,000 acres of spectacular terrain in the Olympic Mountain’s northeastern rain shadow. Continue climbing transitioning into more open forest and start catching views that will only improve in magnitude as you carry on.

Cross several cascading creeks as you follow copious switchbacks upward.

At just past 2.5 miles reach a small pine and fir grove nestled on a small knoll just above tiny Windy Lake. And do hope the lake lives up to its name or its resident bugs may force you to move quickly through the area. In another half mile reach the scenic trail to the Silver Lakes. Bear right and soon leave the trees behind as you attain Townsend’s summit plateau.

Now traverse the subalpine tundra that upon a quick glance may appear barren. But it’s full of life and in summer beaming with color thanks to a myriad of wildflowers; cinquefoil, phlox, paintbrush, and harebells among them.

Look too in the rocky areas for Piper’s bellflower, a campanula that is endemic to the Olympic Mountains. Owing to its drier aspects, junipers hug the ground throughout Townsend’s summit.

At 4.0 miles from the upper trailhead reach a junction. The main trail continues left descending to the Little Quilcene Trail offering two more approaches to the summit—one from the Northwest and one from the Northeast. Head right for 0.1 mile to the mountain’s highest point, its 6280-feet south summit. Consider continuing on the trail a short distance to Townsend’s northern 6212-foot summit too. It was on this point from 1933 until 1962 that a fire lookout once sat.

The views are great from anywhere along the open peak. Gaze out to the Salish Sea with its sprawling labyrinth of islands, bays, and channels. Watch ferries ply azure waters. Marvel at the Seattle skyline sparkling in the afternoon sunlight. And admire a fortress of Cascade peaks, punctuated by the snowy volcanoes. Look north to Dungeness Spit, Discovery Bay, the San Juan Islands, and Vancouver Island. And to the west, it’s nothing but pure Olympic wilderness—jagged peaks and deep green valleys.

And if you’re wondering if Townsend (as well as the nearby city and port) takes its name after the 19th century naturalist who named Townsend’s chipmunk, Townsend’s ground squirrel, Townsend’s solitaire and many other species—it is not!

Captain George Vancouver in 1792 bestowed the name Townsend—originally Townshend for the Marquess of Townshend. The father of Thomas Mamby, one of Vancouver’s crew members was an aide-de-camp to the Marquess at the time. The S’Klallam Tribe which had a community on the bay at the time originally called it Kah Tai which translates to pass through. You’ll probably want to pass through Mount Townsend on a return trip by perhaps ascending it via one of the other routes.

Mount Townsend Details

 

Distance: 8.2 miles roundtrip
Elevation Gain: 2980 feet
High Point: 6280 feet
Difficulty: moderately difficult
Snow free: June to November
Trailhead Pass Needed: None
Notes: trail also open to horses, wilderness rules apply
GPS waypoints: Trailhead: N 47 51.385, W 123 02.153
Land Agency Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene; http://www.fs.usda.gov/olympic
Recommended Guidebook: Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2ed (Romano, Mountaineers Books)
Trailhead facilities: none
Trailhead directions: From Shelton, drive US 101 north for 50.5 miles. Upon crossing the Big Quilcene River just shy of the community of Quilcene turn left onto Penny Creek Road. The drive 1.5 miles and bear left onto Big Quilcene River Road (Forest Road 27). Follow this generally good road for 12.5 miles for the lower trailhead turnoff; or 13.7 miles for the upper turnoff. Then reach the lower trailhead in 0.8 mile or the upper trailhead in 0.7 mile.

Silver Lake Hike

Craig Romano | Story and Pictures
The Olympic National Forest’s Buckhorn Wilderness contains more than 44,000 acres of some of the finest backcountry on the Olympic Peninsula. Within this rugged corner of the Olympic Mountains you can hike on miles of trails traversing deep valleys of old-growth forests and along high windswept ridges granting stunning views. 

Hit the Trail

Located within the Olympic rain-shadow, the Buckhorn receives ample sunshine and consists of a much drier landscape than points south and west. Lakes are rare in this wilderness. Silver Lake is one of the few gracing the region. It provides an oasis for wildlife and serves as an excellent destination for hikers.

There are two ways to reach Silver Lake. The shorter route is via Silver Creek. This route was never officially built, involving instead from a well-trodden user built boot path. It’s rugged in spots and to reach it involves a long rough dirt road from the north. The official trail starts high on the southern shoulder of Mount Townsend. It involves more effort to hike due to its length and elevation gain—but it’s well-built and highly scenic. And the approach to it is by a primarily good paved road.

Nearby Mount Townsend—one of the most popular hiking destinations in the Olympics keeps most hikers away from these trails, leaving Silver Lake a much quieter destination. In early season wildflowers give an added bonus to the official route—but lingering snow can make it tricky. 

"Fall is the perfect time to visit Silver Lake with the added bonus that its resident biting insects have gone the way of the early blossoms."

Start your hike from the upper trailhead for the Mount Townsend Trail. Follow this well-worn & popular path through stately groves of firs and hemlocks adorned with Pacific rhododendrons. In late May and early June, the rhodies add an array of dazzling colors to the surrounding verdant cloak. The trail steadily climbs. Shortly after entering the Buckhorn Wilderness, the forest cover thins and views east emerge. Cross several cascading creeks and continue working your way upward. The trail switchbacks more than two dozen times.

The way crests a small knoll arriving at Camp Windy, which usually lives up to its name. Look below to tiny Windy Lake, not much more than a buggy pool most of the year. Then continue climbing coming to a junction at 3.0 miles. 

Here most hikers will continue right to ascend the open summit of Mount Townsend. You want to head left on the trail less traveled. Your climbing isn’t yet over however. Muster up a little more energy and reach a small gap on a high ridge separating Mount Townsend from the Welch Peaks. Take a break and look back east for a great view of Windy and Sink Lakes directly below. Then face west and enjoy a sweeping view of the Silver Creek valley. Silver Lake however is not visible. It’s hidden behind a small wooded knob to the south.

Now resume hiking crossing a steep slope that comes alive with blossom in the summer. Via a couple of long switchbacks the way descends more than 600' into the valley. Be sure to save some energy for the return hike, as you’ll need to regain that elevation. At 4.6 miles reach a junction in the forested valley. Here the Silver Lake Way Trail descends northwest following alongside Silver Creek. Continue straight, soon coming to Silver Creek. 

Hop across the creek and start climbing again following the creek to its source. 

At 5.4 miles reach Silver Lake in a semi-open bowl flanked by craggy peaks and ridges. It’s a tranquil spot where soft breezes often leave rippling signatures on the lake’s surface; and the raucous calls of Clarks nutcrackers (more common east of the Cascade Crest) often break the silence.

Find a shoreline rock and stay for a while. However, if you have some energy left, a steep half mile path to the south may entice you to follow it. It leads to a gap on a ridge high above the Big Quilcene River where you can stand mouth agape staring out at hulking Mount Constance towering over craggy ridges and deep emerald valleys.

Craig Romano is an author of more than 20 hiking guidebooks including the bestselling Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd Edition (Mountaineers Books), which includes descriptions for 136 hikes throughout the Olympic Peninsula. He is a regular contributor to Explore Hood Canal. Also check out his list of 25 Olympic Peninsula waterfalls at waterfalltrail.org.

Silver Lakes Notes

• Distance: 10.8 miles round-trip 

• Elevation Gain: 3275 feet (High Point: 5675 feet)

• Difficulty Loop: difficult

• Snow free: mid-June to early November

• Trailhead Pass Needed: Northwest Forest Pass or Interagency Pass
  GPS waypoints:
  Trailhead: N47 51.385, W123 02.153, 
  Silver Lake: N47 50.686 W123 04.247

• NW Forest pass required; Wilderness rules

  Land Agency Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene, (360) 765-2200; fs.usda.gov/olympic 

  Recommended Map:
  Green Trails Olympic Mountains East 168S

  Recommended Guidebooks: Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd edition (Romano, Mountaineers Books) 

  Trailhead directions: From Quilcene drive US 101 south for 1.5 miles and turn right onto Penny Creek Road. After 1.5 miles bear left onto Big Quilcene River Road (Forest Road 27); which eventually becomes paved. Continue on FR 27 for 13.7 miles and turn left onto FR 27-190 reaching the trailhead in 0.7 mile.

Tips for safe and healthy hiking during the Covid-19 Pandemic

We all must do what we can to prohibit the continual spread  of this disease. We can do that by adhering to the following while we enjoy our trails:

• Avoid crowded hiking destinations. If you arrive and the parking lot is already full, head to another location
• Opt for weekdays over weekends to hit the trail
• Hit the trail early morning before others arrive
• Avoid hiking in large groups outside of family
• Practice Social Distancing while on the trail, giving other hikers room to pass and keeping your distance from them at lakes and summits.
• Wear a mask when encountering others on the trail. A buff or bandanna works well.
• Pack hand sanitizer
• Pack it in pack it out
• Don’t be a surface pooper. Poop properly in the woods by always using privies first if available-or by heading at least 200 feet away from all trails, campsites and water sources and digging a cat hole for your business. Bury waste and TP.
• Pack out all pet waste.

Big Loop Creek Hike - for all seasons and abilities

Craig Romano is an author of more than twenty hiking guidebooks including the bestselling Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd Edition (Mountaineers Books), which includes detailed descriptions for 136 hikes throughout the Olympic Peninsula. He is a featured columnist for the Fjord and Explore Hood Canal.

Jeff and his mom hiked the Big Creek Trail loop in mid August — check out their review of this hike marked moderate.

“Poets need not go to Niagara to write about the force of falling water,” wrote Robert Frost. Indeed. Amble along this circuitous route within the shadows of Mount Ellinor and see the forces of water all around you. Be continuously captivated by cascading creeks. Churning Big Creek and its tributaries will charm you with their frothy displays and soothe you with their flowing melodies. 

Big Creek Loop
Distance: 4.2 miles roundtrip  Elevation Gain: 850 feet High Point: 1850 feet Difficulty Loop: moderate Snow free: year round Trailhead Pass Needed: Northwest Forest Pass or Interagency Pass GPS waypoints: Trailhead: N47 29.599, W123 12.66 Features: cascading creeks, attractive bridges, rhododendrons, snow-free winter hike; kid and dog friendly, 

photo: Craig Romano

Hit the Trail

The 4.2 mile Big Creek Loop doesn’t go to a lake, high point, significant landmark or through groves of primeval forest. It just goes around the Big Creek basin crossing that banally named waterway and a handful of its tributaries. This hike is all about the journey—not the destination. The trail winds along forested slopes above Lake Cushman crossing tumbling creeks on a series of beautifully-constructed bridges. 

" This hike is all about the journey—not the destination."

A couple of side trails branch off of the main loop to hidden cascades crashing among jumbled boulders. Hike this trail without an agenda—just set your mind free—and pause frequently to admire the show. Generally snow-free in the winter and with easy accessibility, Big Creek can be hiked year round. 

photo: Craig Romano

While it makes for a nice walk on a hot summer day with its shaded glens offering respite from midday rays—autumn through spring are best.  Forested all the way, and always within earshot of tumbling water, the Big Creek Trail makes an excellent rainy day hike. Try to plan it after a period of prolonged rainfall for intense water shows that roar through the forest.

photo: Craig Romano

Utilizing old logging roads and newer tread, the all-volunteer Mount Rose Trail Crew built this delightful loop twenty year ago. “We have existed since 1985,” states Mount Rose Trail crewmember John Jurgens. The crew began as a group of Shelton area climbers who grew concerned over the increasing popularity of the old Mount Ellinor Trail. The old trail contained a section known as the “Chute” which was a hazardous rock and snow-filled gully. With the Forest Service’s blessing the crew constructed a new trail bypassing the chute allowing hikers a much safer passage on this popular trail.

photo: Craig Romano

 The crew took their name however from nearby Mount Rose. They worked on re-establishing the upper Mt Rose Trail when snow cover on Mount Ellinor didn’t permit them to work there. 

From an original group of about 5, the crew now boast a half dozen members who hail from around the Hood Canal Region. They currently maintain 16 trails in the Olympic National Forest. The Big Creek Loop showcases their topnotch bridge building skills. Robust and built to last as Jurgens puts it, I find the bridges works of art that fit in well with their surrounding natural environment. 

"The bridges for many hikers are the highlights of this hike. And children will find them especially appealing."

The trail starts from the recently rebuilt and expanded Big Creek Campground. Here follow what is officially called the Upper Big Creek Loop Trail. Most folks however just refer to it as the Big Creek Loop. The recommended direction is clockwise to take advantage of a gentler descent that will be easier on the knees. The trail immediately crosses Big Creek on a sturdy bridge—one of two provided by contractors and not the trail crew whom built bridges on site with area materials. You’ll immediately recognize the craftsmanship upon reaching them.

photo: Craig Romano

The trail briefly heads down stream along the creek before making a U-turn to begin ascending above it. Signed features and resting benches grace the way. After about a mile the grade gets steeper. Catch glimpses through gaps in the forest canopy of Mount Washington hovering above. At 1.8 miles you’ll come to a junction. You can take an interesting short side trip here on the Creek Confluence Trail which drops to the confluence of Big and Branch Creeks before looping back to the main trail. Here you’ll find good lunch rocks among the two tumbling waterways.

The Big Creek Loop continues straight coming to a junction with the Mount Ellinor Connector Trail just before reaching Branch Creek. The Connector Trail leads left 1.4 miles to the Mount Ellinor Trail and allows for a long and challenging ascent of that popular peak. If you’ve got some energy head one mile up it to a good viewpoint overlooking Lake Cushman,

photo: Craig Romano

The loop continues straight crossing Branch Creek on a good bridge. Just beyond it reaches Big Creek above a gorgeous cascade. Here a new well-constructed bridge spans the tumbling waterway.

The loop now begins descending, skirting some big mossy boulders and passing good views of roaring Big Creek. A short side trail—once part of the Creek Confluence Trail drops back down to where Big and Branch Creeks meet. The main trail now follows an old road, coming to bridged crossings of scenic Skinwood and No Name Creeks. Continue descending passing a few giant firs that loggers forgot. Notice the forest change here. The west half of the loop was dominated by hemlocks—while the eastern half is made up more of Douglas-firs and lodgepole pines. The understory is different too—cloaked here in salal.

Be sure to look up through the trees for a glimpse of Mount Ellinor rising above the watershed. At 4.0 miles come to a junction with the Campground Loop Trail which loops around the campground for 0.8 mile if you want to extend your hike. Otherwise continue right a short distance to return to the trailhead.

Notes: 

Land Agency Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene, (360) 765-2200; fs.usda.gov/olympic 

Recommended Map: Green Trails Olympic Mountains East 168S

Guidebooks: Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd edition (Romano, Mountaineers Books) 

Trailhead directions: From Shelton, travel north on US 101 for 15 miles to Hoodsport. Turn left onto SR 119, and proceed 9.3 miles west to a T intersection with FR 24. Turn left and then immediately turn right into the Big Creek Campground continuing a short distance to the Day Use Area and trailhead. When campground is closed, park at gate, but do not block it.

Trailhead facilities: privy, picnic area, campground, water.

Dogs welcome but must be leashed.

Twanoh State Park Trails -- Day hiking around Alderbrook Resort & Union

Craig Romano

Famous for its large beach on Hood Canal with some of the warmest salt water in the state, many who flock to this park, go straight to the beach or the campground, leaving the 182-acre park’s hiking trails pretty quiet.

Locate the trailhead and start hiking on a wide trail through a cluster of rhododendrons. The way parallels gurgling Twanoh Creek which forms a small delta on the park’s beach. The trail soon comes to a junction.

Here a side trail crosses the creek on an attractive bridge and reaches the campground—an alternative start if you’re camping in the park.

The main trail continues straight through a tunnel of rhododendrons and a grove of big cedars. It then begins working its way up a small ravine cradling the small creek. While this ravine was logged in the past, the second growth forest here is now quite mature.

At .3 mile come to a junction for the loop.

While you can go either way, head left for a clockwise loop and a gradual ascent and transition out of the ravine. As you ascend out of the tight draw, the salal and evergreen huckleberries thin out.

It’s much drier on the ridge above the ravine. After two switchbacks, the trail reaches the head of the ravine. Now head right following an old woods road.

The walking is easy going. Slowly descending come to a group campsite. Then come to another junction. The old road continues straight leading back to the Day Use Parking Area and can be used as an alternative return.

The loop continues right on a switchback descent back into the ravine. Take it passing by a few big old Douglas firs and clusters of leathery-leaved rhododendrons. Reach the loop junction and head left back to the trailhead—and perhaps a trip to the beach.

Satsop Lakes via Church Creek

Craig Romano | story & pictures

Named not for a house of worship but after Frederic Church, a member of Colonel O’Neil’s 1890 Exploratory Trip across the Olympics; never-the-less this trail is sure to touch your soul. The path winds through an ancient forest of towering cathedral trees where gaps in the lofty canopy shine beams of ethereal sunlight upon the forest floor. And while the forest is heavenly, the way is rough in spots and involves some decent climbing. But your toil will be redeemed upon reaching the Satsop Lakes in a tranquil verdant basin that teems with wildlife. 

Features: Dog friendly, magnificent old-growth forest, wildlife rich backcountry lake, and fantastic opportunity for solitude. 

Craig Romano photo

Hit the Trail

Like many trails in the southern flanks of the Olympic National Forest, the Church Creek Trail was once much longer than its current 3.5 mile length. It once extended all the way from the South Fork of the Skokomish River to the Wynoochie River. But the Forest Service accelerated logging in this region after World War II with little regard to preserving many of the historic and scenic trails that traversed this lugged landscape.

By the 1990s however due to pressure from conservationists, and concerned citizens and elected officials, the Forest Service shifted its timber harvesting management objectives to protect old-growth forests. Tens of thousands of acres of the primeval forest that shrouded the rugged valleys and mountains of the southern flanks of the Olympic Mountains however had been cut down. But fortunately large pockets still remained including along that 3.5 mile stretch of the Church Creek Trail. But due to budget cuts, the Forest Service abandoned the trail in the early 1990s.

In 2005 the Church Creek Trail was resurrected thanks to the Olympia Mountaineers. They adopted it; restoring it to a top-notch trail. The trail makes for an excellent alternative to the busier trails in the North Fork Skokomish River Valley. And while the Satsop Lakes make for a lovely destination, it’s the forest along this hike that is the prime attraction. 

Towering Douglas-firs reaching dizzying heights and wide-girth cedars and hemlocks hundreds of years old line the trail from end to end.

From an unimposing trailhead, start hiking immediately entering a cathedral forest of buttressed cedars and spires of firs. | Craig Romano photo

From an unimposing trailhead, start hiking immediately entering a cathedral forest of buttressed cedars and spires of firs. Cascading Church Creek, audible but not visible, adds a soothing aria to this sanctuary. The creek and a nearby peak were named in honor of Frederic Church of the 1890 O’Neil Expedition.  Lieutenant O’Neil and his men explored large portions of the Olympic interior from east to west. 

Along his three month cross Peninsula trek he sent out smaller parties to explore and map watersheds. Church was among these explorers. 

Lieutenant Joseph P. O'Neil (1862-1938), Courtesy Robert B. Hitchman

The O’Neil Expedition’s findings were invaluable. They mapped, explored and collected specimens from at the time was one of the last major mountain ranges in the Continental United States that had not been explored by Non-native peoples. One of O’Neil’s most important revelations was summed up in his report to the 54th US Congress. He wrote, "I would state that while the country on the outer slope of these mountains is valuable, the interior is useless for all practical purposes. It would, however, serve admirably for a national park. There are numerous elk—that noble animal so fast disappearing from this country—that should be protected.” O’Neil’s recommendations would later lead to the establishment of Olympic National Park.

The trail winds and climbs under a lofty canopy supported by gigantic beams. Hopefully your attention will be diverted upward by staring at these amazing old-growth giants; helping to take your mind off of the stiff climb. The way utilizes a series of switchbacks and comes close to Church Creek on several occasions. But the plummeting waterway remains hidden in a deep lush ravine.

The forest understory is thick and verdant and also commands your attention. In early summer, fawn lilies, calypso orchids, and marsh marigolds add additional colors to this emerald world. Return later in August to harvest some sweet rewards in the form of succulent huckleberries.  

The trail crosses several small creeks and after about 1.5 miles it reaches a decommissioned road. This entire basin was once slated for the mills. The forest now remains as it did when O’Neil’s group passed by more than 130 years ago. Turn right and follow the old road bed for about 500 feet before picking up the trail again. Then through a more open forest continue climbing, reaching the 3,150 foot divide between the South Fork Skokomish and Satsop Rivers within another half mile. A humongous hemlock with two pistol-butted limbs stands sentry at the divide.

Now continue hiking through a forest of silver fir, and begin rapidly descending. Pass a pretty cascade fanning into a steep ravine. Giant cedars and Doug-firs are once again encountered as the trail levels out. In 3.2 miles and after losing 1,000 feet of elevation emerge in a grassy opening housing the largest of the five Satsop Lakes. Locate a gravel outwash area which provides for an excellent resting spot. Keep your eyes on the lake for trout and surfacing rough skinned newts. The lake is home to thousands of the latter. Look too along the forest’s edges for bigger critters.

Craig Romano photo

Roam around the lake and notice there is no outlet. Water seeps to the Satsop River via a cavernous basalt basin. Four other lakes are hidden in the surrounding forest if you feel inclined to find them. But while the distance to reach them may not be great, the terrain can be challenging. The trail continues for another .3 mile through more groves of giant trees ending at Forest Road 2372. Yes, you can reach the lakes via a much shorter hike if they are your sole intent. But you’d miss most of the grand forest. But now you get to traverse it one more time as you make the journey back to your vehicle.

Trails notes:

Land Agency Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene, fs.usda.gov/olympic

Distance: 6.4 miles roundtrip 

Elevation Gain: 2,350 feet

High Point: 3,150 feet

Difficulty: moderately difficult

Snow free: June--Oct

Trailhead Pass Needed: None

Notes: FR 2361 is gated and closed from October 1 to April 30 to protect wildlife. You can walk or bike the road (adding 11.2 miles roundtrip) during this time to reach the trailhead.

GPS waypoints: Trailhead: N 47 26.928    W 123 29.437; Satsop Lakes N 47 25.818 W 123 30.851

Recommended Guidebooks: Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd edition (Romano, Mountaineers Books) 

Trailhead directions: From Shelton, travel north on US 101 for 7 miles turning left at milepost 340 onto the Skokomish Valley Road (signed Skokomish Recreation Area). Follow this paved road for 5.6 miles bearing right at a V-intersection onto Forest Road 23. Continue for 9.3 miles bearing left at a Y-junction with FR 2353. Continue on FR 23 (pavement ends) for 4.3 miles. Then bear right onto FR 2361 and follow for 3.4 miles. Next turn left onto FR 2361-600 (if you crossed Church Creek you’ve gone too far) and drive 2.2 miles to a hairpin turn. The trailhead is located on your right.

Hamma Hamma's Living Legacy Trail

By Craig Romano, feature columnist

Craig Romano, is an author of more than twenty hiking guidebooks including the bestselling Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd Edition (Mountaineers Books), which includes detailed descriptions for 136 hikes throughout the Olympic Peninsula. Visit CraigRomano.com for more information.

Take a leisurely hike back into time on this delightful trail along the Hamma Hamma River to the historic Hamma Hamma Cabin. Constructed by the Depression-era Civilian Conservation Corp (CCC), the cabin was used as a guard station in Olympic National Forest. Today it stands as a testament to the craftsmanship and hard work of the CCC. Learn more about “Roosevelt’s Tree Army” and their legacy on this family friendly interpretive trail.

Photo: Craig Romano

In April of 1933 in the midst of the Great Depression, newly inaugurated president Franklin D Roosevelt established the CCC through an executive order. Roosevelt’s aim was more than just putting young men to work and allowing them to provide for their families. 

"Roosevelt strongly believed in the spiritual and physical values of working in nature, and in the importance of conservation of our natural resources for the nation’s health and prosperity."

At its height in 1935, more than 500,000 young men were stationed in more than 2900 CCC camps in every state as well as Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands. At the program’s close in 1942, more than 3 million men (nearly 5% of the country’s male population) had served in the CCC. This trail sheds some light on what life was like for these men during their time in the Corp—and highlight some of their achievements and legacy.

Photo: Craig Romano

Among their many projects, CCC recruits were responsible for building vast amounts of infrastructure within parks and forests throughout the country—including both the Olympic National Park and Forest. 

They also fought fires, reforested large tracts of land and worked on flood control projects. There were camps established right within Olympic National Park and Olympic National Forest, including one in the nearby Staircase Region. Nearby Twanoh State Park on Hood Canal also was the site of a large CCC camp.

Hit the Trail

Start your hike east on a wide and level path through a riparian forest of large mossy maples and speckled barked alders. The first quarter mile of this recently refurbished trail is ADA compliant.  While this trail emphasizes the historic role the CCC played in this corner of Olympic National Forest, there is plenty of natural beauty to be enjoyed long the way as well. It is the only trail (albeit just for a short stretch) that runs along the Hamma Hamma River. 

Photo: Craig Romano

The river’s name come from the Twana (whose ancestral lands included much of the Hood Canal region) word Hab’hab, which refers to a reed along the river’s banks.  The name means big stink, or literally stinky, stinky in reference to the aroma the reeds emitted. The trail hugs a bank above the river allowing for some excellent views of the pretty waterway.

Photo: Craig Romano

 Stop and look for dippers—robin sized birds that feed on aquatic insects and nest along the shorelines of rushing water. In spring look for Harlequin ducks returning from the Salish Sea. One of the prettiest sea ducks, they build hidden nests along rapid moving creeks and rivers.

The trail climbs a small bluff granting an excellent view of the pretty waterway, before leaving the river for forest. At 0.5 mile the trail turns north to cross Forest Road 25. Now walk along cascading Watson Creek climbing about 100 feet to a wooden bench on a perch overlooking the creek. It’s a great spot to sit and enjoy the sound of nature’s water music. By late spring nesting thrushes and other songbirds add a wide range of melodies.

The trail now turns west to soon reach the historic Hamma Hamma Guard Station. Built by the CCC from 1936 to 1937, it was used for administrative purposes for forest fire and trail crews. Today this eloquently rustic structure with its hexagonal bay window can be rented out for an overnight stay recreation.gov. Please respect the privacy of any guests staying at the cabin by not walking on the grounds. Otherwise wander around the structure. Note the landscaping too, especially the rhododendrons which will be in bloom come May.

Photo: Craig Romano

After admiring the historic structure continue west on the loop crossing a small creek and traversing a grove of mature second growth firs. The way then descends into a ravine before re-crossing FR 25. Continue hiking passing some big beautiful old trees before reaching the campground loop road near campsite no. 6. Now turn right and walk the loop road a short distance back to your start closing your loop hike at 1.8 miles. Reflect on some of the achievements of the Corp including the thousands of miles of trails they built, more than 3400 fire towers constructed, nearly 3 billion trees planted, and the development of amenities and infrastructure in more than 800 parks across the nation. Many of their works are still standing and in use in Olympic National Park and Olympic National Forest as well as at several nearby state parks. The Corp’s legacy continues to live on for the next generation of outdoorsmen and women. 

Getting Here 

First .25 mile ADA; Leave No Trace Principles

Land Agency Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, www.fs.usda.gov/olympic

Recommended Map: Green Trails Olympic Mountains East 168S

Trailhead directions: From Hoodsport travel north on US 101 north for 13.7 miles turning left at milepost 318 turn onto FR 25 (Hamma Hamma River Road). Then continue west for 6.0 miles turning left into the Hamma Hamma Campground.  Proceed for 0.1 mile to trailhead located near site no. 12.

Trailhead facilities: campsites (fee), privy

An Autumn Trek to Black and White Lakes

Craig Romano | Story & Pictures
Craig Romano has written more than 25 outdoor guide books including "Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula."

Visit the Black and White Lakes in late September and discover a surrounding landscape far from black and white. Revel instead in an alpine world of living color. The lakes sit in a basin long burned of its forest cover and since carpeted in berry bushes, mountain ashes and other shrubs that burst with brilliant hues of red, orange and yellow come the autumn equinox. It’s a grunt to reach them, but chance are good you won’t have too much company — unless you count gregarious ground squirrels, docile deer, and inquisitive bears.

Craig Romano Photo

Hit the Trail

While the Black and White Lakes lie on the trail less traveled, you must first hike some well-trodden paths. Start your journey on the North Fork Skokomish River Trail, which begins on an old road that was decommissioned in the 1970s. Hike through wild country, much like what U.S. Army Second Lieutenant Joseph P. O’Neil saw in the 1880s on his exploratory trips into the Olympic Mountains. But something O’Neil saw that you won’t were legendary fish runs. Before the North Fork Skokomish’s flow was dammed by Tacoma Power in the 1920s, this river was one of the largest salmon-rearing waterways on the peninsula.

Hike upstream on a wide path and gentle grade crossing several side creeks. Traverse a luxuriant bottomland of big cedars, Douglas-firs, and moss-cloaked big-leaf maples. Pass the Staircase Rapids Loop Trail and consider taking it on the return for a slight variation. After passing Slide Camp, hike across the Beaver Fire of 1985, caused by an illegal campfire during a drought and resulting in 1400 acres of old growth going up in flames. 

Craig Romano Photo

The trail then pulls away from the river. At 3.6 miles, reach a junction just before Spike Camp. Now head right on the Flapjack Lakes Trail and slowly climb out of the valley along the old burn line. After a few switchbacks, the trail turns northward on a fairly gentle course. Admire a big cedar grove along the way, then cross Madeline Creek on a sturdy bridge. 

The creek cascades below through a narrow ravine. Now start heading up steeper and rockier terrain and follow alongside cascading Donahue Creek. At 7.1 miles comes to a junction. The way to the right is where most folks head—to the Flapjack Lakes and Gladys Divide. You want to head left instead on the less-traveled trail.

Cross a pair of creeks, and then steeply climb, rounding a ridge to emerge at a 1936 burn site, now blanketed in berry bushes and mountain ash. After passing the log foundation of an old cabin, come to a junction with the Black and White Way Trail at 8.2 miles. 

The old cabin was once part of a long mining operation here at the lakes. By the mid-1970s it had collapsed leaving only the rotting foundation behind. As you continue to hike into the lake basin, look around for evidence of old mining operations in the form of tailings, pits and cuts.

Craig Romano Photo

Now continue straight another 0.2 mile to an unmarked junction. The trail continues for one mile dropping into a forested basin housing Smith Lake. You want to go right and immediately reach the largest of the trio of Black and White Lakes. The lake is small but pretty with a couple of primitive campsites nearby. The other two lakes are not much more than pothole ponds tucked a little higher in the surrounding basin. 

While the lakes aren’t stunning, the views from the open basin are—especially of the surrounding wilderness. Particularly striking is Wonder Mountain and the Three Sisters to the south, Six Ridge to the southwest, and Mount Steel to the northwest. 

Craig Romano Photo

In autumn, this basin transforms into a mosaic of dazzling reds, oranges, and yellows. 

So where did the name Black and White come from? There are a handful of name origin theories that include the lakes being named after a brand of whiskey, the last names of the original prospectors, and a way of describing manganese found at the site.

In any case the mining history here goes back to claims made in 1907. Copper was the original mineral mined. Getting the copper to market from this remote and rugged location however proved to be a challenge. A proposed flume was never built to help get the ore to the North Fork Skokomish Valley from where it was transported to Tacoma via roads. The mine’s claims were sold several times over the years. In the 1940s the mine’s owners dug a 200 foot tunnel. By the 1960s however mining activity had pretty much ceased at the lakes.

Craig Romano Photo

When you are ready to leave this beautiful and interesting place, retrace your steps 0.2 mile back to the junction near the old cabin remains. Then return the way you came or consider hiking out via the Black and White Way Trail. It’s a shorter route, but a knee knocker dropping more than 2600 feet in 2.2 incredibly steep miles. While the way is knee-jarring, the tread is smooth and not rocky. 

The way trail ends at the North Fork Skokomish Trail at the junction with the spur to Big Log Camp. From here it’s 5.4 miles back to the trailhead via the North Fork Skokomish Trail.

Black and White Lakes hike:

Distance: 16.8 miles roundtrip 
Elevation Gain: 3,800 feet
High Point: 4,515 feet
Difficulty: moderately difficult
Snow free: mid-June – Oct
Trailhead Pass Needed: National park entrance fee.
Olympic NP wilderness camping permit required if backpacking.
Notes: Dogs prohibited. No campfires above 3500 feet.
GPS waypoints: Trailhead: N47 30.968 W123 19.691
Black and White Lakes: N47 34.493 W123 20.556

Features: magnificent old-growth forest, wildlife rich backcountry lake, exceptional autumn foliage, excellent alpine views, historic mining area.

Land Agency Contact:
Olympic National Park, Wilderness Information Center, Port Angeles, (360) 565-3100, www.nps.gov/olym;

Recommended Guidebooks:
Backpacking Washington 2nd edition (Romano, Mountaineers Books) 

Trailhead directions:
From Shelton, travel north on US 101 for 15 miles to Hoodsport. Turn left onto State Route 119 and drive 9.3 miles to a T intersection with Forest Road 24. Turn left, continuing on SR 119 which becomes FR 24 for 5.4 miles. Then bear right, coming to the Staircase Ranger Station in 1.2 miles and the trailhead.

A Quiet trek to Pine Lake

Craig Romano | Story and Pictures

The South Fork Skokomish River Valley offers quite a contrast from the North Fork Skokomish River Valley. Located within Olympic National Forest and not Olympic National Park, the South Fork sees a fraction of the number of folks that visit the North Fork. Once a heavily logged area, the South Fork is slowly reverting back to a more natural state. Miles of former Forest Service logging roads in this wildlife rich valley have been decommissioned; some converted into trails. The converted trail to pretty little Pine Lake is a pure pleasure to walk. And surprisingly, the lake is surrounded by beautiful ancient forest. Majestic hemlocks, Douglas firs, and red cedars—just no pines.

Hit the Trail

Much of the South Fork Skokomish Valley in the Olympic National Forest was intensely logged from the 1940s to the 1980s. By the 1990s however timber harvesting on the Olympic and other Western Washington national forests was heavily curtailed due to market place changes and new management objectives favoring habitat protection and recreation. This resulted in the Forest Service decommissioning hundreds of miles of old logging roads. Some of these old roads however presented new opportunities to expand the trail system.

Olympic National Forest once contained hundreds of miles of trails in the South Fork Skokomish and Wynoochee River watersheds. Intensive logging destroyed most of those trails. Forest Service officials and citizen groups now see new opportunities to regain many miles of these lost trails through road conversions. The trail to Pine Lake is one of these new trails. And unlike so many road-trail conversion that simply involves gating the road and removing culverts—the Pine Lake Trail was designed with aesthetes in mind. 

The road to trail conversion to this little lake involved constructing bends and curves in the original road bed to better mimic a real trail. And the road bed was restored to original contours in places further obscuring old road cuts. 

The Forest Service planted native vegetation along the road bed so that in time it will be very difficult to see that this route was once a wide logging road. And while logging did occur within the Pine Creek watershed, it wasn’t as intense as in some of the smaller watersheds farther south and east. Large patches and tracts of old-growth forest were left uncut. And as the second growth patches adjacent to the primeval tracts continue to mature, evidence of past logging in the basin containing Pine Lake becomes less obvious.

"Surprisingly this trail is not on many hiker’s radar. Come on a weekday and you may have the lake to yourself." 

From the small parking area, follow the trail through second growth forest traversing slopes high above Pine Creek. About half way up the trail you’ll encounter a patch of invasive Scotch broom, a plant that crowds out native vegetation in disturbed areas. The Forest Service along with Washington Conservation Corp crews have done a good job at Pine Lake restoring native vegetation. Unfortunately this pervasive and hardy invasive plant has gotten a foothold in this valley. Hopefully they can soon attack the broom before it sweeps across the valley.

At about two miles the trail enters an attractive grove of old-growth forest. The way then steepens a little breaking stride from its relatively gentle grade to this point. In another .75 mile the trail leaves the old road bed to traverse a grove of big trees and descend to Pine Lake. The lake is pretty shallow and surrounded by grasses, sedges and other small plants—many planted by the Forest Service to help rehabilitate the shoreline from past abuses. 

Treat the area with respect by sticking to established paths and not trampling vegetation.

Savor the serenity of the scene. Look for resident waterfowl on the lake’s open waters and in its vegetated coves. 

Admire the forested hillsides too and Chapel Peak which often reflects upon the lake’s placid waters. Notice too that among the stately conifers surrounding the lake, there does not appear to be any pines. Western white pines valued for their fine wood, were once abundant in the Olympics and Cascades. But it wasn’t logging that erased them from much of these landscapes—but a Eurasian disease, white pine blister rust that decimated stands of this majestic tree. 

It’s possible that is what occurred here at Pine Lake. Then again, early pioneers and explorers were also known for misnaming features. There are no badgers in Olympic National Park’s Badger Valley for example nor black oaks growing anywhere near Black Oak Creek in the North Cascades. Perhaps someone named the lake Pine referring to the area’s evergreens as pines. I have seen this mistake numerous times in travel journals and tourism brochures! Anyhow, Pine Lake’s name origins may remain a mystery. But pine or no pines, the lake is a pretty hiking destination. And if you are intent on seeing some beautiful western white pines, nearby Six Ridge in Olympic National Park harbors some healthy stands of them—but it is no easy hike reaching them.

Pine Lake Hike Resources

Land Agency Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene, http://www.fs.usda.gov/olympic

Recommended Guidebooks: Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula
2nd edition (Romano, Mountaineers Books) 

Trailhead directions: From Shelton, travel north on US 101 for 7 miles, turning left at milepost 340 onto the Skokomish Valley Road (signed “Skokomish Recreation Area”). Follow for 5.6 miles, bearing right at a V intersection onto Forest Road 23. Continue for 9.3 miles bearing left at Y-junction with FR 2353. Continuing on FR 23 (pavement ends) follow this good gravel road for 4.3 miles bearing right onto FR 2361. Continue for 1.2 miles and turn left onto unsigned Spur 200. Follow .7 mile to trailhead.

Distance: 5.8 miles roundtrip 

Elevation Gain: 700 feet

High Point: 1830 feet

Difficulty: moderate

Snow free: Mar—Dec 

Trailhead Pass Needed: None

Notes: Forest Road 2361 is gated and closed from October 1 to April 30th to protect wildlife. You can walk or bike the road (adding 3.8 miles roundtrip) during this time to reach the trailhead.

GPS waypoints: Trailhead: N47 26.270 W123 25.678 |  Pine Lake: N47 25.839 W123 28.618

Features: kid and dog friendly, backcountry lake in old-growth forest, chances for solitude and wildlife watching

Safe & healthy hiking during the Covid-19

• Avoid crowded hiking destinations. If you arrive and the parking lot is already full, head to another location

• Opt for weekdays over weekends and/or early morning to hit the trail

• Avoid hiking in large groups outside of your family 

• Practice Social Distancing while on the trail, giving other hikers lots of room to pass and keeping your distance from them at lakes, summits, etc.

• Wear a mask when encountering others on the trail. A buff or bandanna works well, and remember to pack hand sanitizer

• Pack it in pack it out (including pet waste) and don’t be a surface pooper. Always using privies first if available-or head at least 200' away from all trails, campsites and water sources and digging a cat hole for your business. Bury your waste and toilet paper.

Our Guide

Craig Romano is an author of more than 20 hiking guidebooks including the bestselling Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd Edition (Mountaineers Books), which includes descriptions for 136 hikes throughout the Olympic Peninsula. 

Mildred Lakes

Craig Romano is an author of more than twenty hiking guidebooks including the bestselling Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd Edition (Mountaineers Books), which includes detailed descriptions for 136 hikes throughout the Olympic Peninsula. He is a featured columnist for the Fjord and Explore Hood Canal.

t’s the hardest, nastiest, meanest trail in the Olympics! And that declaration should not be taken lightly, as I have hiked thousands of miles (and written about hundreds of hikes) throughout the Olympic Peninsula. With perhaps only the trail to Lake Constance ranking as just as nasty—you won’t find a more curse-inducing trail than this one. The first time I ever hiked to the Mildred Lakes, I swore to myself that I would never ever do this trail again. I hated it. But alas, I was back on that wretched trail again a few years afterward. And my conclusion was that it’s still the hardest, nastiest, you-have-to-be-crazy-for hiking-this trail in the Olympics! So are you interested in hiking it?

Distance: 9.0 miles roundtrip  | Elevation Gain: 2900 feet | High Point: 4100 feet Difficulty Loop: difficult | Snow free: July to October
Trailhead Pass Needed: Northwest Forest Pass or Interagency Pass
GPS waypoints: Trailhead: N47 34.517, W123 15.672 |  Upper Lake: N47 33.461 W123 18.021

Hit the Trail

Okay, before hitting this trail, let’s have a chat.

No cheery coating—this is what you’re in for. This trail was never officially built. The trailhead was however. It’s fancy with a picnic table, privy and a view of a stunning waterfall. But don’t let those amenities fool you into thinking the trail is anything special. The trail is only 4.5 miles to the lakes, yet it will take you nearly that many hours to reach them. Why? The actual evaluation difference between the trailhead and the lakes is a mere 1,900 feet. But the real elevation gain is more than 3200 feet with copious ups and downs.

®Craig Romano Photo

There’s one section of trail that climbs more than 1,000 feet in about a half mile. It is a nasty clamber up roots, rocks and loose gravel. But don’t curse the root—for they’ll be your handholds. There’s another trail section where you have to vertically drop about 25 feet into a tight ravine. And you’ll be using a veggie belay to climb out of it. You will skirt mud, go through mud, and probably be covered in mud upon reaching the lakes. 

And if you don’t let out a scream, your knees and toes most certainly will! So why then unless you’re a sheer masochist would anyone want to hike this trail? For one thing, the Mildred Lakes are among the largest backcountry lakes the Olympics. Their setting is quite sublime in a rugged basin surrounded by serrated peaks. You will definitely earn these lakes; as many hikers just aren’t cut out for this grueling journey. That means you’ll see a fraction of the amount of people you’d see at nearby Lena Lake.

And in this age of social distancing, the Mildred Lakes’ brutal approach helps make that directive easier to comply.  So if you’re ready to bust your rump, read on!

Hamma Hamma Falls | ®George Stenberg

The Mildred Lakes Trail leaves the roar of the cascading Hamma Hamma River behind and enters the 13,000-acre Mount Skokomish Wilderness. Starting out fairly easy, the path winds through an old cut that has been growing back in pretty nicely. The way then passes a large avalanche chute and enters gorgeous old growth forest. Here what once a decent path now deteriorates into an obstacle course. Around fallen logs, over fallen logs, and straight-up rocky and rooty slopes the trail steeply climbs a 3200-foot ridge. Catch your breath, wipe the sweat from your brow and enjoy a good view of nearby Mount Pershing looming above.

®Craig Romano Photo

The trail then descends from the ridge into a cool forested glen graced by rushing Huckleberry Creek.  And yes, there are huckleberries here—lots of ‘em to sweeten this hike a tad come late summer. At the creek come to a questionable log crossing. You can teeter on it to cross the creek. But it’s probably far safer to wade across. Don’t bother drying your feet, because another creek crossing awaits shortly afterward.

 The trail now get tougher and a tad bit tricky. It ascends a steep ridge and comes to a tight ravine. Using roots as handholds, drop 25 steep feet into the dank draw before resuming a taxing climb. After clambering over rock, root, and ledge—and gaining 1000 feet in elevation in a little more than a half mile—the insanity ends on a 4100-foot ridge. Now wander along open ledges, enjoying excellent views of Mount Cruiser and the Sawtooth Range. You might be a little dismayed however as there are no lakes in sight. Your punishment isn’t over yet. 

®Craig Romano Photo

The trail continues. Drop 250 feet and trudge through marshy mosquito breeding grounds. Make haste through it and finally reach the first of the Mildred Lakes. It’s set in deep old timber with a backdrop of rugged summits. The scene is serene. Scramble over more roots and rocks to the far side of the lake for good fishing spots, resting spots and campsites. Watch resident osprey dive bomb the placid lake.

The other lakes are prettier, so carry on by crossing lower Mildred’s inlet stream and following a rough path through heather meadows for about 0.3 mile to a junction. Here a rudimentary path leads right to middle Mildred Lake. Admire its rocky islands. Upper Mildred, one of the largest backcountry lakes in the Olympics can be reached by continuing on the more defined path for just a couple hundred yards forward. Located in a bowl between Mount Lincoln and Mount Cruiser, the setting is as rugged as the terrain you just hiked across. Quite beautiful too, and hopefully justification for all of the bruises, scratches, and aches and pains you’ll bring back with you to the trailhead.

®Craig Romano Photo

Mildred Lakes Notes

Wilderness rules apply
Land Agency Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene, (360) 765-2200; http://www.fs.usda.gov/olympic 

Recommended Map: Green Trails Olympic Mountains East 168S

Recommended Guidebooks: Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd edition (Romano, Mountaineers Books) 

Trailhead directions: From Hoodsport travel north on US 101 north for 13.7 miles turning left at milepost 318 onto FR 25 (Hamma Hamma River Road). Continue for 13.3 miles (the last five miles are gravel and can be rough) to the trailhead.

Trailhead facilities: privy, picnic area

Tips for safe and healthy hiking during the Covid-19 Pandemic

It’s imperative that we do all we can to prohibit a second devastating outbreak of this disease. We can do that by adhering to the following while we enjoy our trails:

• Avoid crowded hiking destinations. If you arrive and the parking lot is already full, head to another location

• Avoid hiking in large groups outside of your family 

• Practice Social Distancing while on the trail, giving other hikers lots of room to pass and keeping your distance from them at lakes, summits, etc.

• Wear a mask when encountering others on the trail. A buff or bandanna works well.

• Pack hand sanitizer

• Pack it in pack it out

• Don’t be a surface pooper. Learn how to properly poop in the woods by always using privies first if available-or by heading at least 200 feet away from all trails, campsites and water sources and digging a cat hole for your business. Bury your waste and toilet paper

• Pack out all pet waste.

Lena Lakes Hiking Destinations

Craig Romano | Craigromano.com

Gracing the Hamma Hamma Valley are two lakes sharing the name Lena. But aside from the name, they are strikingly different from each other. 

The hike to Lower Lena is an easy kid and dog friendly jaunt through old growth forest. The hike to Upper Lena is a grueling and demanding grunt to a stunning high basin within Olympic National Park. Seasoned backpackers take to the upper lake and often set out afterward to scramble surrounding craggy peaks or head out on a rugged high country route. Lower Lena entertains first time hikers and newbie backpackers often testing their gear and skills for the first time. Expect plenty of company at the lower lake and a good chance for solitude at the Upper Lena.

Hit the Trail

Both lakes use the same approach. On a very well-trodden path head off in second-growth forest. The way immediately climbs, but the grade is gentle. Lena Creek can be heard crashing in the distance. 

Lena Lake 

Continue up the trail and eventually enter groves of beautiful old growth forest. The trail nears Lena Creek and then crosses it on a solid bridge. You might be dismayed however to be standing on a bridge spanning a dry rocky draw.  What happened to the creek? It often makes a subterranean passage beneath all of those mossy rocks. 

Now continue hiking working your way around and below a ledge. The trail then continues to climb coming to a junction at 3.0 miles. If you’re lower lake bound, bear right and within no time come to an inviting ledge granting a wonderful view of Lena Lake 100 feet below.  

To reach the shoreline continue and descend passing busy campsites. You’ll eventually come to a junction with a trail leading back to the trail heading for the upper lake. Head right and reach the shoreline. The trail crosses Lena Creek and continues towards The Brothers—but that’s more of interest to climbers. You’ll figure out in no time that Lena Lake is one of the most popular hikes in the Olympics. Be sure to treat this heavily visited place with care and to practice Leave No Trace ethics. 

Upper Lena Lake 

If you’re more interested in a wilder setting, skip the trip to Lower Lena and from that first junction, head left. Immediately notice how much lighter the tread is now. Bear left at the next junction and begin following Lena Creek through spectacular primeval forest. At just over 4.0 miles the trail enters Olympic National Park. Dogs are prohibited from this point on—and if you plan to camp at Upper Lena you must have a backcountry permit (issued at  Hoodsport Visitor Center and other Olympic National Park ranger stations). Until this point the climbing has been fairly moderate, but that is all about to radically change. 

The trail continues alongside Lena Creek heading up an increasingly tighter valley. After crossing a tributary creek on a log bridge the trail gets downright nasty! Prepare yourself for an insanely steep climb up a rocky, rooty, and at times brushy course. It’s arduous and physically taxing, and when soaked by rainfall it can be treacherous. A good set of trekking poles will come in handy. The climbing eases after you carefully negotiate a ledge and clamber up a steep rocky bed of big rocks, 

Once again come to and cross Lena Creek, which may be following a subterranean passage here as well. 

Continue through open attractive old-growth forest groves. Make one more steep climb before cresting a ridge cradling Upper Lena Lake. Before bolting for the lake, turn around and look back at Mount Rainier in the distance. Now charge for the lake. Enjoy a breathtakingly beautiful backdrop view of 5960-foot Mount Bretherton rising above and reflecting in the lake. Camps (permits required) are along the lake’s eastern shore, and by a short path, on the lake’s western shore. 

If you’re up for the day, stay awhile and soak up the beauty. In autumn the surrounding hills colorfully reflect in the lake’s placid waters. Look for critters big and small frolicking in those hills looking for berries. Feel free to help yourself to a handful as well. If you have any energy left consider following a half mile side trail to beautiful Milk Lake set beneath a small glacier on Mount Bretherton. Then rest up and prepare your knees for the brutal and jarring descent back to your vehicle. The beauty and solitude are definitely worth the grind.

Craig Romano
Award winning author and outdoors writer who has authored and co-authored of more than 20 books including Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd Edition (Mountaineers Books), which features 136 hikes on the Olympic Peninsula. craigromano.com

Lena Lakes Details

Distance:
Lower Lake: 6.0 miles roundtrip; Upper Lake: 14.0 miles roundtrip
Elevation Gain:  Lower Lake: 1225 feet; Upper Lake: 4100 feet 
High Point: Lower Lake: 1900 feet; Upper Lake: 4600 feet
Difficulty: Lower Lake: moderate; Upper Lake: strenuous
Snow free: Lower Lake: March—Dec; Upper Lake: July—November 
Trailhead Pass Needed: Northwest Forest Pass or Interagency
GPS waypoints:     
Trailhead: N47 35.984 W123 09.055
Lower Lake: N47 36.994 W123 09.789 
Upper Lake: N47 38.068 W123 12.329
Dogs are ok at Lower Lena but prohibited at Upper Lena Lake. 
Camping (no fires) at Upper Lake requires National Park Wilderness Camping Permit (contact Olympic National Park, Wilderness Information Center (360) 565-3100)
Land Agency Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene, fs.usda.gov/olympic and Olympic National Park, nps.gov/olym
Recommended Map: Green Trails Olympic Mountains East 168S
Recommended Guidebooks: Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd edition and Backpacking Washington (Romano, Mountaineers Books) 
Trailhead directions: From Hoodsport travel north on US 101 north for 13.7 miles turning left at milepost 318 onto FR 25 (Hamma Hamma River Road). Continue for 7.5 paved miles to the trailhead.
Trailhead facilities: privy