A Hood Canal Road Trip

Ahh... road trips –there’s nothing that holds more appeal than the classic road trip – discovering new places, trying new things – Here's a sample itinerary to get you dreaming about discovering your adventures on Hood Canal.

Getting away from it all is as easy as heading to the South Sound via the Tacoma Narrows Bridge or by catching the Bremerton ferry for the drive to Belfair, at the head of Hood Canal. 

• Belfair, WA ( 22 minutes, 14 miles | Via SR 3 S)

Nestled between the North Bay of the Puget Sound and the southern hook of Hood Canal, Belfair is a great place for road trip supplies or to have lunch before heading off to explore the 130+ acre birder's dream wetlands, Theler Wetlands Nature Preserve.   visit local craft brewery,  Bent Bine Brew Co, to try their new brews. Hankering for wine? Check out the award winning  Mosquito Fleet Winery, also calling Belfair home.

Twanoh State Park includes 3,167' of saltwater shoreline.

• Twanoh State Park (14 minutes; 9.2 miles | via SR 106 W)

Twanoh State Park's 182 acres include 3,167 feet (965 m) of saltwater shoreline and 2.5 miles  of inland hiking trails. Gather shellfish off the public beaches (when open) or simply take a walk on one of the many trails.

• Alderbrook Resort & Spa (7 minutes, 5.2 miles | Via SR 106 W)

Since 1913, generations of visitors have enjoyed the rustic, albeit very luxurious, charm of this canal-side retreat on 88 acres, which include an 18-hole golf course. The 77 guest rooms are ideal for a rejuvenating escape, while the 16 cozy cottages are perfect for family fun. Complete with a waterfront restaurant, dock, and saltwater pool and spa, the Resort also offers access to boating from kayak rentals to multi-person cruises. Alderbrook Resort & Spa (Union, 10 E Alderbrook Dr, (360) 898-2200).

• Union, WA (6 minutes, 2.4 miles | Via SR 106 W)

The spectacular views from Union are not to be taken lightly. Here is definitely the best vantage point to view the Olympic range. On the journey to Union's center, take a moment to admire the historic Dalby Water Wheel and stop in at Cameo Boutique for some great shopping of local items as well as the newly minted Hood Canale with a wood fire pizza and a spectaculr selection of wines. In Union check out the Union Country Store (5130 SR 106) for fresh bakery goods and all you need to continue on your adventure. Across the road, on the waterside, 2 Margaritas Restaurant serves Mexican food; while the Union City Market stocks everything from gifts and collectables to homemade candy and fresh oysters!

• Hunter Farms (5 minutes, 3.4 miles | Via SR 106 W)

The drive along the Skokomish delta is simply perfect. As the road weaves it's path around the shoreline, you are treated to glimpses of the Olympics filtered through patches of arbutus clinging to the beach edge. Before the road forks west, you are greeted by an immense red barn. This is Hunter Farms. Stop and stretch your legs, check out the many animals and fresh produce as well as a selection of locally made products. Visit the onsite information kiosk –but most of all, get a generous cone filled with locally sourced (as in the Skokomish Valley less than 5 miles away!), Olympic Mountain Ice Cream. Amazing.

• High Steel Bridge (26 minutes, 13 miles | Via W Skokomish Valley Rd

If you are up for a short diversion from the Hood Canal Loop, consider a trip to the historic High Steel Bridge that spans the gorge and sits a staggering 427’ above the mighty South Fork of the Skokomish River. Built in 1929, the vertigo-inducing Bridge (NF-2340) has an uncontested view of Vincent Creek Falls, and is easily accessed from Hwy 101. Use caution as the guardrails are decidedly short and the fall is a long way.

• Potlatch, WA ( 5 minutes, 3.7 miles | Via WA-106 W and US-101 N)

Potlatch State Park is a 57-acre camping park with 9,570 feet of saltwater shoreline on Hood Canal. The park's grounds are home to a variety of activities, from interpretive programs for kids to boating and shellfish harvesting. Featuring clear, often calm waters, Potlach is a favorite with divers and kayakers, too. 

• Hoodsport, WA (5 minutes, 3.3 miles | Via US-101 N)

Hoodsport is a seaside town perched on the western shores of the Hood Canal beneath the shadow of the Olympic Range. Here you will find plenty of shops and dining as well as two wineries: Hoodsport Winery and Stottle Winery; as well as a distillery, The Hardware Distillery. Using water from the Olympic National Forest, The Hardware Distillery offers a variety of delectable hand crafted spirits and gorgeous view to enjoy while sipping away in their ambient tasting room. Hoodsport also serves as the gateway tp the Olympic National Park Staircase Entrance.  At the foot of the hill, heading up to Lake Cushman, stop by the Hoodsport Information Center (N 150 Lake Cushman Rd) for great tips on road/trail conditions; permits and maps and friendly guidance.

• Lilliwaup, WA ( 7 minutes, 4.5 miles | Via US-101 N)

Situated on the west shore of Hood Canal, Lilliwaup is a small town with a BIG history and a love of shellfish. Peppered with serene beaches and surrounded by endless hiking trails, Lilliwaup is all about relaxation and rejuvenation. Located in the area is Mike's Beach Resort. One of the oldest and most picturesque resorts in Hood Canal with a unique blend of the rustic look of the Northwest and the relaxed, cozy, and charming chalet style. A dock and mooring buoys as well as rowboats, paddleboat, and a ocean kayak are available for rent. Pet friendly. This is also the home to the Olympic Oyster Co. so you can be sure to enjoy some of the finest oysters on your stay! The Lilliwaup Store is also a great place to get your fill on Olympic Mountain Ice Cream.

• Hama Hama Store and Oyster Saloon ( 8 minutes, 7 miles  | Via US-101 N)

Family owned and operated, the Hama Hama Company has been harvesting oysters and clams on Hood Canal for four generations. Their store and outdoor restaurant, the Oyster Saloon, are located a shell’s-throw from the tide flats. A visit to the farm is the best way to experience Hood Canal oysters in their native habitat. Come during the week to see the shucking crew in action, and ask for one of their self guided tour maps to better explore the farm.

Hood Canal's Spectacular Birding Sights: Theler, Twanoh, & Potlatch

With its wealth of shoreline, fresh and saltwater marshes, mudflats, and of course the bountiful forest, the fjord is a birders’ paradise.

And whereas winter and spring aren’t the most popular seasons for human tourists (meaning less competition for lodging and dining), they happen to be the best for catching the avian crowds. From soaring birds of prey to elusive divers, birdwatching is one more reason to head to the Canal.

The Audubon Society’s Great Washington State Birding Trail is a great resource.

Below we've included three birding areas to get you started!

Theler Wetlands

Located at the head of Hood Canal the Theler Wetlands offers several accessible walking trails within a protected salt marsh and estuary wetlands. The Theler Wetlands of Belfair include a gorgeous salt water estuary. The wetlands are accessible through many miles of level trails and boardwalks, surrounded by roses, shrubs, and blackberries in bloom in the summer months. The trails amount to 3.5 miles round-trip, with the option of three different routes. 

The Union River Estuary Trail is the longest trail offered. To the left of the trail is an old dike that travels through some of the tidal wetlands, and to the right is fresh water marshes filled with cattails and tall grasses. 

The viewing point from this perspective is spectacular! There are 360-degree views of the Union River, Hood Canal, and the Olympic Mountains. 

Sam Theler, a real estate developer, deeded the wetlands to the North Mason School district in 1968 in honor of his wife. 

Rebuilt whale skeleton on display in the interpretation classroom

Families can give these trails a visit, and if they are open, displays and hands-on exhibits are available to examine. They help to teach more about the wetlands ecosystem. There are mounted animals with plaques of information on each, along with a gray whale skeleton for display. There is a picnic area and a restroom as well. Keep an eye out for the many birdhouses along each trail—they are hard to miss! Often spotted are red-winged blackbirds, kingfishers, herons, eagles, otters, and geese. These trails are perfect for people of all ages.

Twanoh State Park

Twanoh State Park is a favorite in the summer for swimming and watersports, but the quieter winter and spring months make it a great place for viewing wildlife and birds. Bring your binoculars to the shoreline for an eyeful of diving birds such as loons, mergansers, murrelets, and ruddy ducks with their distinctive upright tails. In the towering cedars and maples inland, listen for brown creepers and red crossbills.

Potlatch State Park

Like Twanoh, Potlatch bustles with humans in the summer and birds in the winter and spring. With 5,700 feet of saltwater shoreline, it’s a great place for viewing waterfowl, particularly during high tide. In the water, look for heron, scoters and scaups, and check the trees for fox sparrows and Steller’s jays.

For a complete list of bird sites check out this great PDF Audubon Guide.

Hood Canal "Glamping"

If your idea of a camping excursion is freeze dried food and dry shampoo – and luxury to you is a bed of moss under your sleep sack or a solar-powered lamp – "glamping" may not hold much interest for you.  Glamping or  "glamor-camping" as the name suggest, goes WAY beyond the coleman stove and solar shower upgrade.  If you crave a star-studded forest canopy while enjoying gourmet camp cuisine and all the comforts of home – bed, pillows, duvet, light switches– glamping may be a great compromise to get outdoors!

Header Image credit: Poppi Photo

One of the best thing about "camping" is relaxing with a final roasted marshmallow and a steaming mug of hot chocolate. Wrapped in a cozy blanket, the tall trees keep you close in the inky darkness beyond the glow of the fire.  Far from the glow and clatter of the city, the sky displays a covering of unrealistically bright stars. Good conversation and the people you love surrounding you. Who wants to consider the uncomfortable night ahead? Rocks in your lumbar. Slick "high performance" sleeping cocoons that tangle and suffocate. Never mind the 3:00 AM Call of Nature. Stumbling through the dark stubbing toes and tripping over roots. 

Trailer camping is technically considered in the "glamping" category, above the waterfront view and tall trees at Twanoh State Park, Hood Canal definitely set the standards high.

Enter glamping.  A purist would say if you want the experience of camping you need to embrace the whole experience, not cherry-pick the best parts. Galen Patterson, a journalist with Arcadia Weekly, remarks in a recent article, "in its luxury, comfortable camping (glamping) loses what makes the experience worth the discomfort in the first place." He goes on to say that, "instead of connecting with nature and all of its uncomfortable facets, people are bringing the comforts of home with them, and, in doing so, are sapping the spirit of what it means to connect to the outdoors." Patterson advocates that through discomfort and deprivation, he "finds appreciation and, with it, follows a new zest for life." 

Hmmmm. So unless you are suffering you will not appreciate the wilderness?  Good riddance. Rough camping has its place – when space is limited in your kayak or you are pack/wilderness camping and every extra ounce needs to be "weighed" in necessity. However, if you can enhance the joy of spending time outdoors by increasing the comfort level – there is no shame in that!

There are plenty of definitions of glamping. Some feel that cooking on anything beyond an open campfire is glamping. Others consider having cell service a mark of glamor camping.  Perhaps it's sleeping in a bed off the ground, in a cabin or RV. Whatever the case, glamping is a more glamorous spin on camping and it is bringing a whole new level of interest to the camping scene. Love it or hate it, glamping is a thriving trend that continues to grow.

Give it A Try....

Belfair State Park is a 65 acre, year-round camping park on 3,720 feet of saltwater at the southern end of Hood Canal. It is noted for its saltwater tide flats, wetlands with wind-blown grasses and pleasant beach walking and swimming. Cabins sleep five and are furnished with tables and chairs. Outside is a picnic table and fire pit. Bathrooms and showers are nearby. All cabins are heated, but visitors should take along blankets and warm clothing as evenings can be cool. Belfair cabin rates range from $40 (off-season) to $69(peak).  Reserve

Dosewallips State Park offers canvas platform tents for rent. Situated in a maple forest near the Dosewallips River, the tent sleeps up to five people. Made of white canvas on wooden platforms, they are light inside, even on cloudy days. Each tent has three bunks, a futon, lights, table and heater. Outside is a deck, picnic table, fire grill and utility hookup. Bathrooms nearby. All platform tents are heated but campers must bring their own bed linens. Cabins at Dosewallips are situated among evergreen trees looking towards the Olympic Mountains. Each cabin features a covered porch, electric heat, lights and locking doors. Bathrooms are nearby. Tent and cabin rates range from $40 (off-season) to $69 (peak). Reserve

Hamma Hamma cabin is available through the Olympic National Forest

The Hamma Hamma Cabin in the Olympic National Forest is a historic cabin that offers guests a tranquil setting. Formerly a guard station, the cabin was built in 1937 by the Civilian Conservation Corps. The site is nominated to the National Register of Historic Places for the skill and craftsmanship that went into its construction and architecture. The cabin is open year-round. Accommodating up to six guests, the single-story cabin features a living room with a hexagonal bay window overlooking the Hamma Hamma River drainage. There are two bedrooms, one with a double bed and one with bunk beds. The bathroom has a flush toilet. The cabin is equipped with a propane heater and propane lights. An outdoor picnic table, fire ring and pedestal barbecue grill are available for cooking and campfires. Guests provide their own bedding, linens, towels, dish soap, matches, first aid kit, toilet paper and garbage bags. Reserve

Located in Union, the Pebble Beach Cottage has two beds, one bathroom and can sleep up to 5-6 guests. Sitting approx. 75 feet from the water it has a beautiful view of the canal, and surrounded by a cedar forest. This carriage house is a bed and breakfast style stay with a part-time caretaker on sight. Guests enjoy privacy of a vacation home, (as this property is completely separate from the main house), yet access to concierge services. (Rate $195) Reserve at glampinghub.com.  

The Tahuya Adventure Resort is located in the heart of the Tahuya Forest past Belfair.  Featuring campsites with hook-ups and luxury platform tents, this is glamping heaven! The Log Cabin tent features a king size log bed, bunk-beds, oversized chairs and tables, pellet stove, carpet, refrigerator, microwave, and a coffee pot. Each site has an outdoor picnic table and fire ring or you are welcome to use their covered kitchen. (Rate $500/2 nights) Reserve at tahuyaresort.com.

The ultimate "glamping" experience can be provided by Hood Canal Events located in Union, WA. For a fee they can arrange the perfect getaway for you and your signifigant other – or the whole family. From setting up the camp & tent (pictured above) in a spectacular location, arranging tours, hikes or kayaking expeditions, to chef prepared gourmet meals in your camp – Jeff and Kerry can take care of it all for you. Call them directly at (360) 710-7452 or visit  hoodcanalevents.org. Photo Poppi Photography

Hood Canal Events, based in Union, can provide unique glamping experiences. Offering everything from a Hood Canal beach glamor picnic (great for intimate gatherings, family picnicking, lounging, or celebrations) to a fully catered overnight trip, they can arrange special requests your group may have. Hood Canal Event's packages include furnishings, amenities, activities (kayaking to mushroom foraging or live music) and a chef for locally prepared food and beverages.  Overnight glamping packages are available. For information on rates or customizing an experience, call (360) 710-7452, or visit hoodcanalevents.org.

Above are just a few ways you can elevate your "glamping" experience on Hood Canal.  There is no wrong way to do it. If you prefer backcountry camping, with your home on your back and no connection to civilization, the Olympic National Park has that too. Camp for days and never see another soul in the backcountry areas. Talk about "finding appreciation."  

If camping or glamping is not your thing thats cool too. Hood Canal and South Puget Sound have wonderful guest lodging and rentals right on the beach – with power and flush toilets. Visit explorehoodcanal.com/lodging for a complete list that is updated weekly. 

Whatever you choose, just get out there and create some great memories – stubbed toes or not!