Wildside Harvest

Stella Wenstob | photos & story

Summer is fading, its warmth edged by the cool, crispness of fall. Theres a dampness that only can be shaken by a warm fire or a cozy drink. It is almost time to dig into the back of your closet and find that sweater that you forgot about last Spring, but you know that if you put it on in the morning, by lunch time you’ll be sweating it off. They call September a transition month, but menopausal might be more accurate. Salmon start working their way up inlets and streams and blackberries begin to rot on the vine.

But this is not the end of the natural bounty of the Pacific Northwest. Oysters are ready for the picking. And local fruit, such as the purplish berry-like swollen sepal’s of salal (Gaultheria shallon) and the dark or sometimes bluish evergreen huckleberry (Vaccinium ovatum) are adapted to the dampness, they contain high proanthocyanidins, which have strong antimicrobial properties that deter moulding. These proanthocyanidins are a type of tannin that are found in tree barks, roots, leaves, and fruits of plants, but the salal berry’s content is charted as one of the highest in the berry world (higher in some healthy compounds than blueberry, lingonberry, and cranberry). A local super fruit salal contains compounds high in antioxidants that are full of health benefits, such as decreasing inflation, promoting cardiovascular health as well as a myriad of nutritional benefits.

SALAL

As a child I delighted in pinching the base of the slightly fuzzy fruit to pop them open revealing their inner five-pointed star shape. This shape marks salal as an untrue berry (or pseudoberry, according to botanists). True berries are formed by the swelling of the ovary or fruiting body of the flower, whereas salal (and other non-true berries like blueberry) are formed from the swollen outer sepals of the flower.

Growing up on the the west coast of Vancouver Island, I remember breaking off the reddish branches that the fruit form on in uneven clusters of 5 to 15 and pretending I was eating grapes. Which isn’t that far off since Shiraz grape berry skins are also famous for their high levels of proanthocyanidins (but still only roughly half the amount that salal does). There was a myth in my hometown that the Vinland that the Vikings discovered was not L’Anse Aux Meadows off the East Coast of Canada, but the Pacific Northwest with its dripping salal berries.

Of course, while fantasy versions of history are diverting, the truth is always more fascinating. salal was incredibly important to the Indigenous people of the Pacific Northwest. It is named in 30 languages, even language groups that didn’t see the plant growing locally (Turner 2014) but valued the berries as a trade good. [Just as an aside, there are over 50 distinct Indigenous languages spoken in the Pacific Northwest, that is the area from Alaska to Oregon– making this one of the most linguistically diverse parts of the world].  Along the Hood Canal, the Skokomish (Twana) have two words for salal: t́a’qe, which refers specifically to the plant, and t́a’qa?, which refers to the berry (Nile Thompson, undated, Skokomish Tribal Centre). The word salal comes from the Chinook Jargon, an Indigenous trade language, first recorded by the 1805-1806 Lewis and Clark expedition as variously shallon, shelwel or shellwell. This was later tightened up to salal or sallal by the Scottish botanist David Douglas (of Douglas Fir fame) when he visited Fort George (near present day Astoria) in 1825.

As its linguistic significance attests salal was widely enjoyed by Native Americans of the Pacific Northwest. There are extensive records of seeds and whole berries recovered from archaeological sites. And it is remembered how berries were harvested in huge numbers, Nancy Turner in her 2014 volume estimates this to be 100,000 to 200,000 berries per family per year. These were cooked using hot rocks and then dried into cakes that would last into the winter. These cakes were often traded from coastal tribes into the interior to tribes that did not have this delicacy. To take away the dryness, when eating them they were dipped in eulachan, seal or whale oil. The leafy branches are also useful in pit cooks. The berries were also crushed up and mixed with salmon eggs to make paint. And it is recorded that the leaves were used in teas to ease inflation and they were often chewed as a hunger suppressant. Even today salal still plays an important part in the Pacific Northwest’s economy. Known commonly as “lemon leaf” it is an ubiquitous green found in commercial floral arrangements.

My dad loves to pick ripe salal berries in late August to mid-September. He recently discovered a hack to separating the stems from the berries (a task that if often tedious and unsatisfactory as it often bursts the tender berries) – he picks the berries complete with their red stems and freezes them on baking trays overnight, the next day the frozen berries are firm enough to separate from the stems without damage.

My dad’s speciality is salal berry jelly, and it is a favorite with its rich, earthy flavou. My brother in-law calls it “medicine”. My dad is a creative cook, and I have a strong childhood memory of dad straining the tiny seeds from his boiled concoction with a pair of my mum’s pantyhose. Thankfully, dad now uses a metal strainer, but these seeds are important in the boiling stage for imparting lots of natural pectin that helps the jelly set. Another use my sister, over at the Fjord Oyster Bank, recently discovered was rendering the berries into a syrup which she used as a base for gelato! As a nod to more traditional methods of preparing salal, the internet abounds with recipes for making fruit leather with salal. I have not trued this, but its antimicrobial properties and its pulpy texture make it a natural fit for this method.

EVERGREEN HUCKLEBERRY

Evergreen Huckleberry (or cynamoka) is another local super fruit that becomes available in the Pacific Northwest from late summer to late fall (some even say the berries taste better after the first frost). They are known as the ya’ýaXbi (the bush) and ya’ýaX∂b (the fruit) to the Skokomish (Nile Thompson, undated, Skokomish Tribal Centre).

This sometimes dark and glossy or sometime cloudy and blue berry is my favourite berry to pick and preserve. I freeze them and love to have them with yogurt and homemade granola. They are also fantastic in baking, brightening up scones, muffins with their tangy flavor. Basically, anywhere you could use blueberries you can use these, but it will taste ten times better. Of course, my dad also like to make jelly of Evergreen Huckleberry too.

Like salal, Evergreen Huckleberry rates high on the healthy scale. According to Rossier’s survey of the literature around the healthfulness of Evergreen Huckleberry for her 2019 thesis documenting the traditional management and harvest of Evergreen Huckleberry amongst the Karuk, Yurok, and Hupa people of Northern California and Southern Oregon:

“Anthocyanins, a subclass of polyphenols that provides the blue, purple, and red pigments found particularly in dark berries such as V. ovatum, have been specifically researched regarding their ability to: 1) reduce Type II diabetes and associated issues (e.g. hyperglycemia, related kidney disorders, insulin resistance), obesity, and cardiovascular disease; 2) enhance vision; 3) be neuroprotective, 4) be antimicrobial against foodborne pathogens (e.g. Escherichia coli, Listeria monocytogenes, Salmonella enteritidis, among others) while preserving probiotic strains, and 5) be anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, and chemoprotective against a variety of cancers, including breast and colon cancers” (20-21, 2019).

Salal is a major food source for the Pacific Northwest people. The Makah of Northwestern tip of the Olympic (and possibly other Northwest tribes), were known to actively manage Evergreen Huckleberry bushes through pruning (also called by coppice) and by controlled burning (Turner 2014) to encourage berry productivity. Likewise, Evergreen Huckleberry is a popular cut green for floral arrangements commercially, though it is not as popular as salal.

Some people get fanatical about picking wild berries in season. They plan out their time off in terms of berry picking hours, make special berry picking buckets out of 8L ice cream buckets and rain pant bib straps, and drive dusty logging roads or hike out to find their special patch. I was raised valuing the berry-stained hands and the delicious taste of a sun warmed berry straight off the branch, I always travel with an empty bucket in the back of my car “just-in-case”, but the berry-picking process doesn’t have to be strenuous to be satisfying. It can be as easy as a walk in the park (literally). Not only is it a lovely way to spend your time, aside from a few bug bites and branch scratches, it’s a very healthy past time and people for millennia have been celebrating and enjoying these fruits of the earth.

Stella Wenstob is is historian and researcher residing on Vancouver Island's outer coast. She is a regular contributor to Tracing the Fjord.

Home Lake

Craig Romano | photos & story

Little Home Lake lies on a rugged and remote ridge tucked between some of the highest and most impressive peaks in the Olympic Mountains. Fed by springs and surrounded by clusters of subalpine firs and flowering meadows, Home’s setting is quite serene. But cast your attention beyond its placid waters and be blown away by the staggering beauty of its neighboring mountains—especially of 7,756-foot Mount Constance, whose sheer western rock face towers above the lake. It’s an awe-inspiring scene, and a side of the mountain so starkly different from the one presented to countless folks who have admired this familiar peak from the east.

It’s a long way to Home Lake making it a multi-day hike for all but the strongest hikers and trail runners. The lake can be approached via four routes with the approach starting on the Upper Dungeness Trail being the shortest and easiest (but not easy). That route along with the Tubal Cain Mine Trail approach involve long (and bumpy) drives for folks coming from the South Sound.

The Dosewallips-Constance Pass approach involves walking a long stretch of old road and a very steep lightly maintained trail. My preferred route to Home is via the Upper Big Quilcene River Trail to Marmot Pass. While this means enduring a busy trail for a few miles, you’re rewarded with exceptional views and several excellent campsites along the way if the 11 mile route to the lake is too much to do in one day.

The Upper Big Quilcene River Trail enters the 44,258-acre Buckhorn Wilderness, the largest roadless area within the Olympic National Forest. The trail starts off gently traversing magnificent stands of primeval forest along the churning waters of the Big Quilcene River. You’ll cross many side creeks along the way. Lack of water is not an issue on this route. After passing Shelter Rock Camp, the trail steeply climbs away from the river to begin traversing open avalanche chutes and scree slopes offering good views of the rugged surroundings. Keep climbing—it only gets better. At just shy of five miles the trail reaches busy Camp Mystery set in a grove of Alaska yellow cedars and subalpine firs. Its springs are a great place to refill water bottles.

The trails now leaves the forest for subalpine meadows which burst with wildflowers through the summer. Watch for scurrying ground squirrels, languid marmots, and docile deer. At 5.3 miles, crest 5,950-foot Marmot Pass and savor the excellent view east to Hood Canal, Puget Sound, and the Cascades. Then gaze west towards the Dungeness Valley flanked by Mounts Mystery, Deception, and Walkinshaw; some of the highest summits in the Olympics.

From the pass, the Tubal Cain Trail veers right offering another albeit longer and more difficult approach to the pass. For Home Lake head left traversing open slopes granting sweeping views of a wall of craggy summits. Here in the Olympic rainshadow, the terrain is much drier than the rest of the Olympics.  Lodgepole and whitebark pines cling to the ridges and steep slopes.

Look for Clark’s nutcracker, a jay-like bird which feeds on pine nuts.  Listen for its raucous call, a rare sound in the Olympics.

The way now descends and traverses a steep slope that often harbors two steep (potentially dangerous) snowfields earlier in the summer. The trail then enters open pine forest and descends steeply. Remember—you’ll have to climb this stretch on your return. At just over 7 miles the trail reaches a junction with the Dungeness River Trail—the easiest approach to Home Lake.

Now continue left on the Home Lake Trail crossing a creek and entering an open basin littered with jumbled boulders. Here find Boulder Camp with its restored and historic shelter. This is a good place to set up camp for the night.

For Home Lake continue south climbing to a forested swale and soon reaching an unmarked junction. The trail left leads one mile to a 6,300-foot gap from where a steep scramble path drops 800 feet to the tiny Charlia Lakes tucked in a rugged cirque. It makes for a spectacular and challenging side trip.

Continue south traversing steep slopes sporting stunted trees. At 8.0 miles enter Olympic National Park. If you’re hiking with a dog, this is your turning around spot. From here the lightly used path skirts steep avalanche swept slopes and crosses several cascading creeks. The terrain opens up as the trail travels beneath the formidable towering and stark walls of 7,300-foot Warrior Peak and 7,756- Mount Constance, third highest peak in the Olympics. The trail descends and gets rougher traversing a sprawling boulder and talus field. The walking is slow over the jumbled mess coupled by an inclination to keep tilting your head upwards and pause in amazement.

After negotiating the rocky mess the trail once again climbs. It ducks into a forested area to skirt snowfields at the base of Constance.  At 10.5 miles and at an elevation of 5300 feet, reach Home Lake housed in a small basin beneath steep flowered slopes.

From its south shore enjoy home sweet views of Warrior Peak (named by celebrated climber Fred Beckey when he solo climbed it back in 1946). Lightly used camps (permits required) can be found on the wooded bluff above its western shore.

If you have any energy left, be sure to continue on the trail beyond the lake for another half mile climbing steeply up heather and flower fields to 5,800-foot Constance Pass. From here take in a breathtaking view of the Dosewallips Valley below and magnificent views of The Brothers, Mount Anderson, Mount La Crosse and a wide swath of the wild Olympic interior. Upon completing this hike, you just might be quoting a famous Dorothy with, “there’s no place like home!”

If you go:

Distance: 21.0 miles roundtrip
Elevation Gain: 5800 feet
High Point: 5350 feet
Difficulty: difficult
Snow free: July through October
Notes: Overnight camping permits required for Home Lake which is in Olympic National (acquire at Recreation.gov or from Wilderness Information Center in Port Angeles; https://www.nps.gov/olym/index.htm). Dogs are prohibited at Home Lake and in Olympic National Park. Campfires are prohibited Home Lake and above 3,500'. Dangerous steep snowfield just beyond Marmot Pass often lingers well into summer.
Trailhead Pass Needed: Northwest Forest Pass or Interagency Pass
GPS waypoints: Trailhead: N47 49.669, W123 02.445
Land Agency Contact: Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene; and Olympic National Park, Wilderness Information Center, Port Angeles, www.nps.gov/olym
Recommended Guidebooks: Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 3rd edition (Romano, Mountaineers Books) and Backpacking Washington 2nd edition (Romano, Mountaineers).
Trailhead directions: From Shelton, follow US 101 north for 48 miles turning right onto Penny Creek Road (about 1.5 miles south of Quilcene). After 1.5 miles bear left onto Big Quilcene River Road (FR 27) and follow this road for 9.3 miles turning left onto FR 2750. Continue 4.7 miles to the Upper Big Quilcene River Trailhead.
Trailhead facilities: privy

After the Fire, the Forest Begins Again

Jeff Slakey | Story

A year after the Bear Gulch Fire swept through the forests above Lake Cushman, a walk into Staircase in the Olympic National Park reveals something unexpected among the blackened trees: life. Lots of it.

I made the trek up to Staircase at the end of August. It had been on my list all summer, but somehow summer has a way of filling itself, and the trip kept getting pushed to another day.

I had forgotten what a beautiful drive it is. Lake Cushman appeared through the trees, impossibly blue in the late-summer sunshine. Boats dotted the water. Families lingered along the shoreline, squeezing a little more out of August. Near the north end of the lake, I pulled over for a moment simply to look.

A year earlier, this had been a very different place. On July 6, 2025, a human-caused fire ignited the steep, rocky southwestern slope of Mount Rose above Lake Cushman. It would become known as the Bear Gulch Fire. What began in Olympic National Forest grew through a hot, dry summer. By late July, the fire had moved toward Olympic National Park, crossed the North Fork Skokomish River and entered wilderness areas. Hot, dry weather and easterly winds fueled periods of rapid wildfire growth in August and again in September. By the time it was declared fully contained on November 12, the Bear Gulch Fire had become the largest wildland fire on the Olympic Peninsula since 1951.

For those of us who live around Hood Canal, watching it unfold was painful. As media we were offered daily updates from the fire service and each report was more grim as the weeks ensued.  Staircase isn't simply another entrance to a national park. It is our backyard swimming hole, Sunday hike, picnic spot and the place we take visiting relatives when we want to casually remind them how lucky we are to live here.

Then, for nearly a year, it was closed.

On July 8, 2026, Staircase welcomed visitors back. The road, campground, ranger station, developed facilities and Staircase Rapids Loop Trail reopened, although wilderness trails farther into the burned area remain closed while crews continue assessing hazards and repairing damaged infrastructure.

It isn't the Staircase we remember.

But perhaps that's the point.

Signs of the fire appear immediately. Some are literal signs—warnings marking closed or burned areas and reminding visitors that hazards remain. Others are written across the landscape. Along the Rapids Trail, trunks stand blackened against the sky. Fallen trees lie where they came down. In places, the forest floor is startlingly open where dense vegetation once crowded the trail. The scale of it is sobering. And then you notice something else.

Green. A fern unfurling beside a burned stump. Flowers blooming in newly opened sunlight. Birds moving through branches overhead. And perhaps most fascinating are the places the fire simply missed. Fire does not move through a forest like a paint roller. It skips, turns and changes intensity with wind, moisture, slope and fuel. One patch can be scorched while another nearby remains green. The result is a mosaic—black, brown and every imaginable shade of green.

It looks chaotic to us. To a forest, it is an ancient pattern.

We tend to think of the Olympic Peninsula as a place defined by water: moss-draped trees, swollen rivers, dripping ferns and forests so green they almost glow. But fire has been part of this landscape for thousands of years.

Scientists find its history in charcoal, tree rings, fire scars and the ages of forest stands. Evidence suggests enormous portions of the north, east and south Olympic Peninsula burned during major fire episodes roughly 300 to 500 years ago, with another cycle affecting many eastern watersheds about 250 years ago. Some of the forests we now consider timeless wilderness grew from those fires. Walk through parts of the Elwha and Morse Creek drainages, for example, and relatively young stands of Douglas-fir reveal the outlines of burns that occurred generations ago.

The Olympics have always lived on a rhythm far longer than our own. On the wetter western side of the peninsula, centuries may pass between major fires. On the drier eastern and southern slopes, fire has historically returned more frequently. Douglas-fir, with its thick protective bark, is particularly well suited to this relationship.

Fire opens the canopy and sunlight reaches into places that may have been shaded for decades. Nutrients locked inside vegetation return to the soil.Shrubs, grasses and wildflowers move into newly opened spaces. Eventually young trees follow. What looks at first like an ending is also succession.

Not every fire is beneficial, of course. Human-caused wildfires are preventable, and the Bear Gulch Fire brought real costs—to wildlife habitat, recreation, park infrastructure, firefighting resources and the people and businesses connected to this corner of the peninsula. We should learn from it. But we can also recognize that the forest knows what to do next.

Standing there among the burned trees, I kept thinking about a line from one of my favorite movies, Jurassic Park. Dr. Ian Malcolm, played by Jeff Goldblum, famously observes: “Life finds a way.” It certainly has at Staircase.

The more time I spent looking, the less the landscape seemed dead. It was busy. Birds called from the trees. Insects moved among flowers. New foliage crowded around old trunks. Plants took advantage of patches of sunlight that hadn't touched the forest floor in years.

Even the surviving trees seemed more remarkable because of what surrounded them. A burned landscape makes you pay attention and look at the forest not as a finished picture, but as a process.

“It would be easy to mourn what Staircase looked like before the Bear Gulch Fire. And there is nothing wrong with doing that. But forests aren't museums. They don't stay frozen in the version we first fell in love with. They flood. Trees fall. Rivers change course. Windstorms open the canopy. Fire arrives. And the forest responds.”

Thanks to the extraordinary work of firefighters, park employees, road crews and many partner agencies, visitors can once again drive to Staircase, stop at the ranger station, cross the bridge over that astonishingly clear North Fork Skokomish River and walk beneath the towering trees.

Some of those trees are green. Some are black. Some are gone altogether. And beneath them, the next forest has already begun. Perhaps that is the reason to visit Staircase now. Not despite the fire. Because this is a rare opportunity to watch one of the oldest stories in the Pacific Northwest unfold in real time.

Come back next summer and it will be different. Come back in five years and shrubs and young trees will have changed the view again. Bring your grandchildren decades from now and the forest they walk through may bear little resemblance to the one we see today.

The blackened giants will eventually fall. New trees will rise among them. The scars will soften beneath moss, fern and salal. And somewhere beneath all that green, charcoal will remain in the soil—the quiet signature of the Bear Gulch Fire of 2025. A reminder that a forest is never really finished. It is always becoming.

Before You Head to the Beach: Hood Canal's Shellfish Scene, and What to Know Right Now

Hood Canal looks like a bay but it technically isn't. It's a fjord, which is a long, deep arm of saltwater carved out by glaciers during the last ice age. The water is cold and rich, the kind of cold that is very good for shellfish, which is why Mason County has become one of the best places in world to dig clams, eat oysters, mussels and geoduck. The farms and  tideflats along the canal have supplied restaurants and raw bars for decades, and recreational harvesting has been a local tradition for even longer.

The Washington Shellfish Trail

If you want a guide to it all, shellfishtrail.org is where to start. The Washington Shellfish Trail is a statewide resource that maps out oyster farms, shellfish events, and self-harvest beaches across the state. The site includes links to WDFW licensing information if you're planning to harvest. To harvest shellfish or seaweed in Washington, everyone age 15 and older needs a Washington State Shellfish/Seaweed License. These are easy to get online through the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife (WDFW) website or at sporting goods stores and many local shops. Be sure to bring your license along on your trip, it is required whenever you gather your own oysters or clams.

Check Before You Go: A New Beach Status Tool

The Shellfish Trail recently added a new feature at on its website. The live "beach status" page pulls daily harvest data from the Washington Department of Health and displays current open, conditional, or closed status for beaches across the state. It also includes a GPS-based tide tool that uses your location to provide upcoming tide predictions for the nearest NOAA station. It's a handy tool for anyone planning a harvesting trip. Conditions can change quickly, and having the current status makes planning easier.

Two Very Different Bodies of Water

Mason County is shellfish country, but not all of its water is the same, and if you're planning a harvesting trip, its important to learn the terrain. Hood Canal runs about 50 miles from its northern entrance near Foulweather Bluff all the way south and around the Great Bend to Lynch Cove near Belfair. It's deep, up to 600 feet in places, with an average depth of around 177 feet. That depth is a characteristic of a fjord. There's a shallow underwater ridge, called a sill, near the northern entrance that limits how freely deeper water can exchange with Puget Sound. The Skokomish River pours freshwater into the south end, creating a layer of lighter freshwater on top of denser saltwater below. Those two layers don't mix easily, so the deep water of Hood Canal can go a long time without being replenished with oxygen-rich water from the surface or from outside. That's a natural condition of a fjord. When algae blooms occur and produce toxins, those conditions can linger.

Hammersley Inlet and Oakland Bay, near Shelton, close to the canal as the crow flies, are almost entirely different bodies of water. Hammersley is a shallow, winding tidal channel -- about eight nautical miles of twisting waterway that connects Oakland Bay to the greater South Puget Sound. When the tide changes, all the water in Oakland Bay has to move through that single narrow passage, and it does so fast. Currents in Hammersley can run up to five knots. That tidal movement means the water flushes on every tide cycle, mixing and exchanging far more actively than the deep, stratified water of Hood Canal. Oakland Bay itself receives freshwater from Goldsborough Creek and several other smaller streams through Shelton, making it more of a true estuary, shallower and warmer with the tides.

That difference in water character is one reason these two areas can have different conditions at any given time. A closure on Hood Canal doesn't automatically mean Hammersley or Oakland Bay are affected, and vice versa. In fact, even when one area is closed, you might find that another nearby beach remains open for harvesting. The beach status tool mentioned above shows each growing area's status independently, so you can easily see which beaches are currently open. Checking by location lets you find alternative spots rather than assuming one closure covers everything.

Right Now: Hood Canal Is Closed for Recreational Harvest

On June 12, the Washington State Department of Health issued a warning after lab testing found lethal levels of Paralytic Shellfish Poison in shellfish samples collected near Union. As a result, all recreational shellfish harvesting in Hood Canal is currently closed, from Foulweather Bluff and Port Ludlow Bay south, including Port Gamble Bay, Quilcene Bay, Dabob Bay, and Mats Mats Bay. The closure covers clams, oysters, mussels, scallops, and other molluscan shellfish. Crab and shrimp are not included.

If someone has eaten shellfish from a closed area or starts having symptoms like tingling, numbness, dizziness, or trouble breathing after eating shellfish, call 911 right away. Paralytic Shellfish Poisoning can become serious very quickly, and it is important to get medical help immediately. Warning signs have been posted at public beaches in Mason, Kitsap, and Jefferson counties. PSP is caused by a naturally occurring marine toxin produced by certain algae. Shellfish accumulate it as they filter-feed, and there's no way to tell by looking, smelling, or tasting whether they are contaminated. Cooking doesn't destroy it either. Symptoms can come on within minutes to a few hours after eating affected shellfish and can be serious. The closure will stay in place until DOH testing confirms toxin levels have dropped to safe concentrations. Beach status is updated daily as new water and shellfish test results become available, so you can rely on recent information for planning your trip. The most current status is always available on the DOH Shellfish Safety Map (fortress.wa.gov/doh/biotoxin/biotoxin.html), or you can check the Shellfish Trail's beach status tool above. For the fastest updates, you can also sign up for email or text notifications on the DOH website to be alerted when conditions change.

Still Worth the Trip

A PSP closure is a sign that Hood Canal is a living, healthy ecosystem, and that the water quality here is monitored closely because people depend on it. The canal's fjord-like geography means it doesn't flush and refresh as shallower bays do, making it especially sensitive to conditions in the water column. That's also part of what makes it so productive when conditions are right. The beaches are still beautiful. The farms are still operating (commercial shellfish goes through a separate, federally supervised monitoring program). Kayaking, crab and shrimp fishing, swimming, and shoreline exploration are all unaffected. Keep an eye on the beach status page on shellfishtrail.org for updates -- and bookmark it for your next trip out to the water.

Sea Lions & Harbor Seals of the Salish Sea

Whiskers in the Green

Story & Pictures | Thom Robbins

There are dives where the water gives you exactly what you came for. You drop into Hood Canal with a camera and find plumose anemones blooming from pilings like pale chandeliers. You descend at Sund Rock hoping for wolf eels and get lucky enough to find one peering from its den, green eyes steady as old glass. You head north toward the San Juan Islands and drift past walls dressed in kelp, watching rockfish hold themselves in a current stronger than it looks – Then there are dives where the water decides otherwise.

I had my camera aimed at a sculpin no longer than my thumb, trying to frame the shot before it bolted. I felt a light tug on my fin. Not hard, just enough to make me turn. Behind me hovered a young sea lion, suspended in the green water like a dog that had just stolen a sock. It let go, rolled once, then blasted away in a trail of bubbles before circling back to see if I had learned the rules.

Another time, I was focused on a nudibranch inching across a piling when I sensed movement beside my mask. A harbor seal had drifted in so quietly it seemed to arrive fully formed. It hovered over my shoulder, staring at the same sea slug I was photographing as if it had concerns about my composition.

That is part of the magic. Sea lions and harbor seals often feel less like wildlife you happen to encounter and more like curious neighbors checking in on what you are doing.

For many people, above the surface, sea lions and seals blur together. Both are sleek marine mammals with whiskered faces, dark eyes, and the unnerving ability to look adorable and deeply competent at the same time. Both haul out on rocks, beaches, docks, and floating logs around the Salish Sea. Both vanish into the water with enviable grace. But spend any real time with them, especially underwater, and their differences become obvious.

They are among the most charismatic animals in Pacific Northwest waters, and they know it, playful, intelligent, and efficient predators closely tied to the health of this inland sea. When one appears on a dive, the whole mood lifts.

The easiest way to tell them apart begins with the ears.

Sea lions have visible external ear flaps. Harbor seals do not. If you can clearly see little ears on the side of the head, chances are you are looking at a sea lion. If the head appears smoother and rounder, you are likely looking at a harbor seal.

That is the quick version. The better version comes with watching.

Sea lions are built for swagger and noise. Longer, louder, and more theatrical, they carry themselves like animals aware of their own presence. In the Salish Sea, the two species most people encounter are California sea lions and Steller sea lions. California sea lions are the familiar barkers of docks and buoys, energetic, vocal, and often piled on top of one another in noisy heaps. Steller sea lions are larger, heavier, and impressive enough that the first one you see underwater can feel less like wildlife and more like weather moving toward you.

Sea lions belong to the eared seal family and use their large front flippers almost like wings. They can rotate their rear flippers beneath them, allowing them to move on land with surprising confidence. On haul-outs, they bark, posture, shove, and argue like a committee meeting with no chairperson.

In the water, all of that bulk becomes grace. They become pure athletes. They bank, roll, accelerate, stop, and reverse direction with the kind of ease that makes a diver feel assembled from spare parts. I have watched sea lions streak past so close I could see old scars across their hides, whiskers swept back flat against their faces. Then, with one effortless turn, they were gone.

Young sea lions are often the comedians. They blow bubbles in your face, dart in close only to veer away at the last second, grab at loose fins, hoses, or hoods, and return repeatedly to see whether you have become more entertaining since the last pass. They remind you that intelligence and mischief often travel together.

Harbor seals move through the world differently. They are smaller, rounder, and quieter, with large dark eyes and faces that can look permanently thoughtful. On land, they move with a soft-bodied undulation, unable to rotate their rear flippers beneath them as sea lions do. In the water, however, they become sleek and efficient, propelled by smooth movements of the hind body and rear flippers.

Where sea lions often announce themselves, harbor seals simply appear.

You scan the water column, and suddenly one is there, suspended just beyond your bubbles, watching with calm interest. Then another. Then emptiness again.

They move with a composed self-possession, less interested in spectacle than observation. If sea lions are the extroverts of the pinniped world, harbor seals are the thoughtful introverts who miss nothing.

Color can help, though nature loves exceptions. Harbor seals often wear mottled coats in shades of gray, silver, tan, or brown, marked with spots or rings. Sea lions tend to be more uniformly colored, usually darker brown to tan, with smoother-looking coats.

Behavior is often the fastest clue. Sea lions are more likely to race in, circle, blow bubbles, tug at fins, and treat a diver like an unexpected toy. Harbor seals are more likely to hover nearby, inspect you carefully, and drift close enough to make eye contact before slipping away.

Both reward patience. Neither should be chased. The best encounters happen when you stay calm and let them decide the distance.

For all their playfulness, both live demanding lives shaped by weather, tides, predators, and the constant need to eat enough in cold water.

Harbor seals are year-round residents throughout much of the Salish Sea. They haul out on beaches, mudflats, rocks, floating logs, and quiet shorelines to rest, molt, warm themselves, and give birth. Their pups enter a world that expects competence from an early age. Many can swim within hours of birth, though they still rely heavily on their mothers for milk, protection, and guidance. In the wild, harbor seals can live 25 to 30 years, long enough to know these shorelines well.

A mother harbor seal with a pup is one of the more memorable sights these waters offer. The pup stays close, surfacing beside her, learning quickly in a place where hesitation can be expensive. Bald eagles, currents, storms, disturbance, and predators do not grant many second chances.

Sea lions use the Salish Sea somewhat differently depending on species and season. California sea lions are often seasonal visitors, especially males that move north after breeding farther south. Steller sea lions maintain a broader regional presence and use haul-out sites to rest between feeding trips. Their rookeries, where breeding occurs, are generally outside the central Salish Sea, but individuals are common enough visitors that they feel like part of the neighborhood. Sea lions can live 20 to 30 years, when the ocean allows it.

Young sea lions seem born with mischief already installed. Juveniles are often the ones most interested in divers, boats, docks, and anything unfamiliar. Curiosity likely helps them develop the speed, coordination, and confidence they will need as adult hunters.

Both sea lions and harbor seals feed primarily on fish and squid, taking advantage of whatever is seasonally abundant. Herring, salmon, smelt, sand lance, and other small fish that travel in schools make up much of their diet.

A healthy prey base supports not just seals and sea lions, but seabirds, larger fish, whales, and the broader ecosystem around them.

Watching one hunt underwater changes how you think of them. The softness many people notice from shore gives way to speed, precision, and purpose. A harbor seal that looked sleepy on a log can turn into a torpedo the moment fish appear, reaching speeds of around 15 miles per hour in a burst. A sea lion that spent the morning barking on a buoy can cut through a bait ball with athletic brutality, capable of pushing closer to 25 miles per hour when it decides to move.

They are not pets of the sea. They are predators built by cold water and hunger.

They are also exquisitely adapted to the environment. A thick layer of blubber insulates them from temperatures that send divers scrambling for dry gloves and thicker undergarments. Their blood carries oxygen efficiently. During dives, heart rates can slow, and blood flow can be prioritized to essential organs. Harbor seals can remain underwater for 20 to 30 minutes, sea lions closer to 10 to 15. By the time you start wondering where they went, they are already behind you again.

Even their whiskers are remarkable. Those stiff facial whiskers, called vibrissae, help detect movement and turbulence in the water. In simple terms, they can help read the traces left behind by prey. Long after a fish has passed, the water may still be telling on it.

Spend enough time diving here, and you begin to recognize personalities.

There was a harbor seal at Sund Rock last year that would appear near the safety stop almost every few dives, never close enough to touch, always close enough to study. It seemed to favor staying just outside arm’s reach, rotating slowly to keep one eye on me.

If I looked away, it drifted closer. If I looked back too quickly, it retreated a few feet. We repeated this silent negotiation several times over the season. A juvenile sea lion in the San Juans once became fascinated with the reflection in my dome port. It rammed the water in front of it repeatedly, then barked underwater, a strange muffled burst that vibrated more than sounded. When that failed to solve whatever problem it had with its own reflection, it sped off and returned with two companions, as though expert consultation was required.

Moments like that are funny, but they also reveal something deeper. These are social, aware, inquisitive animals navigating complicated worlds.

In the ocean, relationships are rarely simple. Sea lions and harbor seals are loved by people who watch them from beaches, ferries, marinas, kayaks, and shorelines. A whiskered face rising beside a boat can improve a day in seconds. Tourists point. Locals smile despite themselves. Children lose all composure.

To divers, they can feel like temporary companions. I have had harbor seals mirror my movements for minutes at a time. I have had sea lions thread themselves through my exhaled bubbles as if I were some new underwater fountain installed for their amusement. I have had one repeatedly swim behind me and look over my shoulder every time I tried to photograph something on the reef, apparently determined to supervise.

But friendship, in the human sense, is not really the point. Curiosity is. These animals investigate their world constantly, and sometimes we happen to be in it.

Their enemies are more serious. Bigg’s killer whales, the mammal-hunting orca often seen in the Salish Sea, prey on seals, sea lions, and other marine mammals. When they are nearby, haul-outs can empty quickly, and behavior can change in an instant. What looked lazy a moment ago becomes alertness distilled.

Large sharks are less common here than in some coastal regions, but remain part of the broader marine story. Disease, storms, and scarcity also take their toll.

Human impacts are often the more persistent challenge. Entanglement in fishing gear, marine debris, vessel disturbance, pollution, shoreline development, and depleted prey stocks can all affect populations. Even well-meaning people can cause stress by crowding haul-outs, separating mothers and pups, or forcing animals into the water.

The best wildlife viewing leaves wildlife unbothered. Give hauled-out animals space. Keep dogs back. Use binoculars instead of footsteps. On the water, slow down when needed and avoid forcing animals to react to your presence. Underwater, never corner or pursue them.

If they want to meet you, they will make that clear quickly. And when they do, it is hard to forget. There are flashier creatures in the Salish Sea. Giant Pacific octopus carry myth with them.

Wolf eels look imagined. Nudibranchs seem painted by someone unwilling to choose only one color.

Salmon carry the weight of economies and cultures. Orca arrive with instant gravity. But sea lions and harbor seals possess something rarer: personality visible at a glance.

You see it in the harbor seal hovering inches away, whiskers forward, deciding what to make of you. You see it in the sea lion that rockets in from nowhere, steals a playful tug at your fin, and vanishes before you can laugh into your regulator.

You see it in the animal that watches you watch the sea.

For those of us lucky enough to dive here, they become part of the rhythm of these waters. Never guaranteed, never scheduled, always hoped for. Every diver knows the feeling of surfacing after one of those encounters.

You climb back onto shore or boat, smiling harder than the conditions deserved. The water may have been cold, the visibility poor, the current annoying, the camera stubborn.

None of that matters now.  Because for a few minutes, something wild invited you into its day. And in the green waters of the Salish Sea, that remains one of its finest gifts.

Thom Robbins is a seasoned diver, underwater photographer, and author with a deep passion for the Pacific Northwest and its marine life. With over thirty years of diving experience, Thom has spent countless hours beneath the surface, documenting the mysterious beauty of wolf eels, octopuses, and nudibranchs as well as seals and sealions. His underwater videos and photographs bring the hidden world of the Salish Sea to life, captivating both online and print audiences. He is a regular contributor to the Fjord.

FJORDIN CROSSIN | JUNE 13

Fjordin Crossin embraces an old world Scandinavian tradition of the spirit “aquavit”, with a series of unique events at the beach in Hoodsport, WA – a nordic parade, a barrel crossing, a family-friendly paddle race, drinks, vendors and food and, after the tide pushes the celebration back to the shore, the after-party continues on the streets of Hoodsport.

When explorer George Vancouver charted the area in 1792, he mistakenly labeled it a canal. What he had actually encountered was something far rarer: the only true fjord in the contiguous United States. Carved by glaciers thousands of years ago, Hood Canal plunges to depths exceeding 600' in places, its steep forested walls and saltwater currents giving it the same geological features as the famed fjords of Norway and Alaska.

And every summer, the waterfront town of Hoodsport leans into Nordic connection with one of the Pacific Northwest’s most delightfully eccentric celebrations: Fjordin Crossin.

Part kayak festival, part Scandinavian homage, and part small-town beach party, the event has evolved into a beloved tradition where aquavit barrels sail across the fjord, paddlers skim over cold saltwater, and accordion music drifts through town alongside the scent of grilling oysters.

At the center of it all is The Hardware Distillery, the craft distillery founded by Jan and Chuck Morris. Over the lat two decades the distillery has become known for its small-batch spirits crafted with Washington-grown ingredients and glacier-fed water flowing from the nearby Olympic Mountains.

background

Seven years ago, inspired by the centuries-old Scandinavian tradition of Linie aquavit — a spirit historically aged during long sea voyages —  Chuck and Jan decided Hood Canal deserved its own version of the ritual. In Norway, barrels of aquavit famously cross the equator and return transformed by months of rolling ocean travel. In Hoodsport, the journey is shorter but no less spirited: a barrel of dill aquavit is ceremoniously launched across Hood Canal from Hoodsport toward Tahuya and back again. What began as a playful nod to Nordic heritage has grown into one of the canal’s signature summer gatherings.Today, Fjordin Crossin transforms Hoodsport’s marina waterfront park into a lively festival layered with Scandinavian flair and Northwest charm.

The centerpiece is the Paddle the Canal Challenge, hosted by Hood Canal Events, where kayakers, paddleboarders, canoes, and small sailboats follow the aquavit barrel across the fjord in a colorful flotilla of non-motorized craft. Some competitors arrive in sleek touring kayaks; others paddle in costume, leaning fully into the event’s Viking spirit.

Participants can bring their own boats or rent kayaks from local outfitter Hood Canal Adventures right at the beach. This year’s timed paddle includes a knit cap for racers, with reasonable early-bird registration rates for families and casual adventurers alike.

But Fjordin Crossin is as much about gathering on shore as it is crossing the water. By late morning, the marina fills with local artisans, oyster vendors, craft booths, and families wandering between beach games and live music. A walking parade heralds the beginning of the ceremonies as fiddlers, accordion players, and participants dressed in Scandinavian attire escort the barrel toward the dock.

the launch

As the barrel begins its symbolic voyage across Hood Canal, spectators line the waterfront cheering paddlers into the water. Nearby, the Aquavit Garden pours cocktails featuring herbaceous aquavit, local wines, and craft beer. The salty air smells faintly of smoked seafood, evergreen forests, and citrus peels crushed into summer drinks.

after-Tide gathering

Eventually, as the tide come in, the celebration shifts inland. The party migrates naturally into Hoodsport where tasting rooms, galleries, breweries, and restaurants keep festivities rolling into the evening. The festival carries the easy authenticity of a community celebrating the place it loves most — equal parts quirky, maritime, and deeply rooted in local identity. And while the aquavit barrel may be symbolic, the pride behind it is not.

For one weekend each year, Hood Canal embraces its identity as America’s hidden fjord — a place where Nordic traditions feel surprisingly at home beneath Douglas firs. In Hoodsport, Fjordin Crossin isn’t simply a festival. It’s a love letter to the fjord itself.

Wild Coastal Cuisine from the Edge of the Pacific Northwest

Artist feature: Daniel Ferreira, Cooking Around the Sound

Cooking Around the Sound is a visceral celebration of the Pacific Northwest, bringing elevated, regionally-inspired cuisine to the rugged fringes of the Washington coast. Led by creator/chef Daniel, each dish is a tribute to the landscape, crafted on driftwood-strewn beaches and islands accessible only by kayak. From the mist-covered shores of the Hood Canal to the hidden inlets of the Puget Sound, the channel highlights the raw connection between the elements and the plate, featuring local treasures like Dungeness crab, Pacific oysters, and Beecher’s Handmade Cheese.

The experience is defined by a high energy, fast-paced aesthetic that trades dialogue for the rhythmic, mechanical sounds of the craft—the heavy clink of a skillet, the hiss of a searing pan, and the steady pull of the tide. Every shoot captures the grit of the Pacific Northwest, showcasing technical skill and the authentic beauty of preparing meals in the wild.

With the channel’s iconic mascots, Captain Pepper and Old Salty, standing watch over every meal, Cooking Around the Sound offers a gritty, authentic, and visually stunning look at the spirit of Pacific Northwest coastal cooking.

Smoked Wild Sockeye Salmon Dip

This recipe brings the bold, smoky flavors of the Pacific Northwest directly to your bowl. Perfectly balanced with a hint of citrus and the bite of fresh herbs, it’s a rugged yet refined dip designed to be prepared—and enjoyed—wherever your kayak takes you.

• 1 package (4oz) Smoked Wild Sockeye Salmon
• 1 block (8oz) Tillamook Cream Cheese
• 1/2 cup Tillamook Cultured Sour Cream
• 1/4 Red Onion, finely diced
• 2 tbsp Capers, drained
• 1 tbsp Fresh Dill, chopped
• 1 tbsp Fresh Chives, finely minced
• 1/2 Lemon, freshly squeezed
• To taste: Black Pepper (from Captain Pepper)
• For serving: Saltine or buttery crackers

Build the Base: In a mixing bowl, combine the cream cheese and sour cream. Fold them together until smooth and velvety. Prepare the Salmon: Gently break the smoked sockeye salmon into bite-sized flakes and add them to the base.
The Aromatics: Add the finely diced red onion, capers, fresh dill, and minced chives. These provide the color and sharp, herbal brightness that cut through the richness of the salmon. Season & Brighten: Squeeze in the fresh lemon juice and add a generous crack of black pepper. The Fold: Gently fold all ingredients together until well-incorporated, ensuring the salmon stays in distinct, flavorful pieces.
Serve: Transfer the dip to a bowl, garnish with extra chives and dill, and serve with plenty of crisp crackers.

Chef’s Note: This dip is best enjoyed on a driftwood strewn beach with the sound of the tide in the background.

Follow the journey: Instagram & TikTok @cookingaroundthesound.

Bluegrass from the Forest celebrates 21 years!

Florida-based Remedy Tree brings an Americana sound rooted in bluegrass, indie folk, and Appalachian old-time traditzions.

Bluegrass From the Forest returns for its 21st year this  summer, bringing another long weekend of high-lonesome harmonies,  campground picking circles, late-night jams, and community celebration to Shelton’s South Mason Youth Soccer Park. What began as a grassroots gathering has become one of the Pacific Northwest’s most beloved bluegrass traditions — equal parts music festival, family reunion, and all-night jam session beneath the fir trees.

Powered entirely by volunteers, the festival raises funds for the philanthropic efforts of Kristmas Town Kiwanis while drawing musicians and fans from across the country to the Hood Canal region. Alongside nationally touring acts, the festival continues its tradition of spotlighting Northwest talent, hands-on workshops, youth programs, open mics, and impromptu collaborations that often become the heart of the weekend.

The 2026 lineup promises a rich mix of tradition and forward-thinking string music. Florida-based Remedy Tree brings an Americana sound rooted in bluegrass, indie folk, and Appalachian old-time traditzions. Founded by husband-and-wife duo Gabriel and Abigail Acevedo, the band has evolved into one of the more distinctive young voices in modern bluegrass. Gabriel’s Puerto Rican heritage and rural Florida upbringing lend the music an outsider’s perspective, while Abigail’s roots in folk and old-time circles anchor the band in tradition. Together with Isaac Taylor and Nathan Beaumont, Remedy Tree delivers emotionally rich songwriting, driving instrumentation, and a fresh vision for where bluegrass can go next.

From North Carolina, Unspoken Tradition channels the spirit of Appalachian storytelling through hard-driving newgrass energy and deeply felt harmonies. Their sound balances nostalgia and momentum, blending reverence for traditional roots music with a contemporary edge that has made them a standout on the national bluegrass scene.

Unspoken Tradition sound balances nostalgia and momentum, blending reverence for traditional roots music with a contemporary edge.

Representing the South Puget Sound and Hood Canal region, Union City Council Band draws from old-time mountain music, blues, jazz, gospel, and folk traditions to create a lively, high-energy bluegrass experience. Featuring Guy Demartino, Greg Linder, Donald Strand, Martin Strand, and Gwendolyn Taylor, the quintet combines virtuosic instrumentation with rich vocal harmonies and a deep appreciation for traditional forms.

Seattle-based Hemlock Revival arrives as one of the Pacific Northwest’s most exciting emerging bluegrass acts. Formed through late-night jam sessions among friends, the six-piece group blends progressive influences from bands like Mighty Poplar and East Nash Grass with the timeless drive of classic bluegrass pioneers. Their dynamic performances and mountain-high harmonies have already earned attention at venues across the region, including Wintergrass showcases.

Like strong traditional bluegrass with an edge to it? Then you'll like Runaway Train Bluegrass! This band is known for tight harmonies and clean pickin'. A Pacific Northwest mainstay, they are the host band for Bluegrass from the Forest festival and they also play an important role in helping to get the festival going every year.

The Host Band for the Saturday Night Country Dance, The Bar-K Buckaroos play traditional western swing dance music in the style of Bob Wills and his Texas Playboys. They bring their love of Bluegrass, Country and Swing, Jazz, Blues and Raggae' to form a great evening of western swing and 20-40's era swing music.

Beyond the performances, Bluegrass From the Forest remains deeply rooted in participation and community. The Chick Rose School of Bluegrass returns Saturday morning with an intensive youth workshop led by Stacey Harnew, Jered Wildman, and crew. Designed for kids eager to learn bluegrass music in a supportive setting, the program has become one of the festival’s most cherished traditions.

The popular Band Scramble returns Saturday afternoon, giving attendees the chance to sign up, form impromptu bands, and perform together after just 30 minutes of rehearsal time — often resulting in some of the festival’s most memorable moments. And for those inspired by the campground jams and collaborative spirit of the weekend, the Open Mic offers a welcoming stage for original songs, spontaneous arrangements, and shared musical discoveries.

More than two decades in, Bluegrass From the Forest continues to embody what makes roots music festivals special: world-class musicianship paired with generosity, spontaneity, and a deep sense of belonging. Whether you come for the headline acts, the late-night picking circles, the kids’ programs, or simply the feeling of hearing banjos echo through the trees, the festival remains one of the Pacific Northwest’s most heartfelt summer traditions.

For additional details on band bios, ticket and camping reservations, visit bluegrassfromtheforest.com.

Early Bird ticket pricing is available until June 20.

Crossing the Bar - McMicken Island

Craig Romano | Story & images

There are no bridges or causeways to little McMicken Island in Case Inlet. No ferry service either. But you don’t need a kayak or boat to visit. You can easily hike to this island which lies about 0.2 mile off of the eastern shore of Harstine Island. It’s all in the timing. 

When the tide is low, a tombolo (a sandbar connecting the island to the mainland—or in this case another island) is exposed allowing you dry foot access to the island. You then can hike the island’s small half mile trail, picnic in its small meadow, or explore big barnacle-encrusted rocks in its intertidal zone. Just mind the incoming tide lest you make a big splash on your island exodus.

Hit the Trail

The hike to little 11.5 acre McMicken Island begins from the 300-acre Harstine Island State Park. A former Washington DNR property, most of the old timber was logged off, but small groves of old-growth remains on the property.

You want to head to the park’s beach reachable by the two trails taking off south from the parking lot. Take the one on the eastern end of the lot (away from the kiosk) for the more direct route.

The trail heads towards Case Inlet soon reaching the edge of a 100 foot high forested bluff. Continue along the bluff taking in glimpses of the remote beach below. The way then descends into a cool and dark ravine graced with big cedars and firs and reaches a junction.

The trail to the right loops back to the other main trail leaving the parking lot. Consider taking it upon your return from McMicken Island.

Head left through a row of big cedars and via a series of steps descend deeper into the ravine. After crossing a little creek the way emerges on a deserted beach. Look directly across Case Inlet to Herron Island and the Key Peninsula. Then look south and spot McMicken Island set against a backdrop of big beautiful Mount Rainier. If the tide is high, you’ll have to wait to hike the beach as overhanging trees prohibit passage. But in a low tide, a big wide easy to walk beach awaits your footprints.

Walk for more than a mile undulating between cobbles, mud and sand. Watch for sand dollars scatted across the tide flats. Look too for eagles, herons and a myriad of seabirds. Harstine is a wet place and plenty of side creeks fan out on the beach. You should be able to keep your shoes dry, but a pair of waterproof boots is not a bad idea. The entire way to the tombolo is on public tidelands. But there is a parcel of private property located between two large state park properties abutting the shoreline. Respect posted private property.

The tombolo is pretty distinctive in low tides—fairly wide and several feet raised above inlet waters. In high tides it’s completely submerged, although breakers will help you locate its position. It’s really fun to hike it when a receding tide first reveals it. Tap your inner Moses and part the seas watching the land bridge emerge as you amble along it.

Reaching the island

Once across the .2 mile sandy strip, reach McMicken Island. All of the little island except for a small fenced parcel with a couple of cabins is state park property. The private holding belongs to the family that once owned the entire island. They sold the island to the state withholding this small lot. Please keep out of it. The rest of the island however you are free to explore.

At the island’s western end is a small picnic area in a grassy opening. Here find some rare Garry oaks growing on a low bluff above the surf. Near a composting toilet at the eastern edge of the field is a small nature trail. Hike it! It weaves a half mile through towering firs and madronas to blufftop views on the eastern end of the island.

Be sure to explore the rocky tide flats surrounding the island too, and check out the large erratics scattered about. There is a particularly large one on the south side of the island. Enjoy your island wanderings and explorations—more than likely sharing it with no more than just a couple of other happy hikers. And be sure to keep track of the time and incoming tide so you don’t get trapped on the island.

Places to Stay
Waterfront cabin located on Harstine Is with beach access and a panoramic view of the Puget Sound, Mt. Rainier and McMicken island. Check availability

Hike back to Harstine Island State Park and call it a day or consider walking some more. The park contains three miles of trails. They traverse thick fir forests and swampy cedar groves and are family and dog-friendly.

McMicken Island Notes:

Forest Setting with Beach Access
Cross the bridge to Harstine Is. and enjoy a beautiful and quiet retreat in the woods. Relax in the comfortably furnished cabin or enjoy exploring the 5 acre property with meandering trails through a lovely forest. Check availability

Distance: 4.0 miles round trip
Difficulty: easy, pay attention to tides! Hike is only possible in low tides. Consult tide tables and plan accordingly. Dogs permitted on leash.
Trailhead Pass Needed: Discover Pass

GPS Waypoints: Harstine Island State Park Trailhead: N47 15.737 W122 52.236 McMicken Island Trailhead: N47 14.865 W122 51.780

Features: Kid and dog friendly, beach hiking, undeveloped coastline, small island reached via a sandbar, good bird watching, sublime views of Mount Rainier over Case Inlet.

Trailhead directions: From Olympia, head north on US 101 to Olympic Highway (SR 3) Exit in Shelton. Then turn and follow SR 3 east for 11.0 miles. Turn right onto Pickering Road (Signed for Harstine Island) and drive 3.3 miles. Then bear left onto Harstine Bridge Road and come to a T-junction upon entering Harstine Island. Go left on North Island Drive and after 3.0 miles turn right at the island community hall onto East Harstine Island Road. Proceed for one mile and turn left onto Yates Road. Continue 0.9 mile and turn right into Harstine Island State Park. Reach trailhead parking in 0.2 mile.

Taking Care of Our Stars

Text & images Thom Robbins

Starfish, or sea stars, are some of the ocean's most fascinating creatures.  They lack brains and blood, digest food outside their bodies, and can  regenerate lost limbs—sometimes even growing a new starfish from a  single severed arm. In the colorful, thriving world of the Salish Sea, starfish stand out for their beauty and vital role in the ecosystem.

Beyond their striking appearance, starfish play a crucial role in maintaining balanced ecosystems. As keystone species, they regulate the populations of other marine animals, maintaining ecosystem balance. Without them, the entire system can become unbalanced, affecting many different species.

Starfish or Sea Stars?

While 'starfish' and 'sea star' are often used interchangeably, sea star is the scientifically accurate name. The reason is simple: sea stars are not actually fish. They lack scales, fins, and gills, which are essential characteristics of true fish. Regardless of this, 'starfish' remains the popular term in everyday language!

Diving into our local waters reveals a world of intricate ecological connections, with starfish acting as caretakers, maintaining the delicate balance of their underwater habitat.

One of everyone's favorites, the Ochre Sea Star, (shown above) with its vivid shades of purple, orange, and yellow, plays a crucial role in the Salish Sea. It's role of preying on oysters, mussels, and barnacles maintains an intertidal population balance and diverse marine ecosystem.  Some aquaculture farmers may not agree, but without sea stars, oysters would dominate the habitat and disrupting the ecosystem balanc

30 Local Stars

Of the 2,000 species worldwide, over 30 sea stars are found locally, adapted to the cool, nutrient-rich waters. This includes the vibrant Rainbow Star, known for its striking red and orange hues, often seen in rocky subtidal areas. This species is an active predator, feeding on urchins, snails, and even other starfish. Another intriguing species is the Vermilion Star, which inhabits deeper waters and stands out with its bright red hue. It primarily feeds on sponges and small invertebrates, slowly moving along the seafloor for prey.

Starfish belong to a diverse group of marine animals called echinoderms, which include sea urchins, sand dollars, and sea cucumbers. Echinoderms are characterized by radial symmetry, often with a five-point structure, though some species can have more arms. They also have unique skin, which ranges from smooth and velvety to spiny and rough. Their internal skeleton is made of calcium carbonate plates, giving them strength and flexibility.

Water for Blood

Instead of blood, sea stars pump  seawater through a network of canals called the water vascular system. This system powers their movement, helps them breathe, and delivers nutrients throughout their bodies. By filtering seawater stars can absorb the oxygen and nutrients they need to survive.

By pumping seawater, they extend and retract tiny tube feet on their arms, which act like suction cups. This enables them to crawl across the ocean floor, clinging to rocks and rough surfaces. Some species do this surprisingly fast. the Sunflower Sea Star can travel up to a meter per minute!

Vermillion Star

Some sea stars use their suction-cup tube feet to pry open mussels, clams and oysters, exerting pressure with their tube feet up to ten times their body weight, giving them the power to open even the most tightly closed shells.

Once a starfish has pried open a shell just enough, it does something extraordinary—it extends its stomach out of its body and into the shell. This allows it to digest the prey externally, turning the meal into a liquid form that it can absorb into its body. This method of external digestion makes it easier for starfish to consume prey that would otherwise be too large to eat.

Each species has evolved distinct feeding strategies. For instance, the Leather Star has been known to drill tiny holes into the shells of its prey, providing access to hard-to-reach food sources.

A New Limb

One of the most fascinating features of starfish is their incredible ability to regenerate. Losing a limb isn’t the end for a starfish; it’s an opportunity for renewal. They can grow back a severed arm and, in some cases, even regenerate an entire body from just a part of a limb, as long as it includes part of the central disc.

This ability comes from specialized cells in their arms that can transform into the various types of cells needed for regrowth. This regenerative power helps them escape predators, heal from injuries, and even reproduce, making them incredibly resilient. Scientists are studying this ability not just to understand marine life better but also to explore its potential applications in medical research, offering new insights into how cells can regenerate and repair.

Each starfish species has adapted to thrive in its niche within the diverse marine environment. For instance, the Blood Star is well-suited to the cooler, deeper waters of the Pacific, where it feeds primarily on organic detritus and sponges. Unlike intertidal species, the Blood Star can be found on rocky reefs and sandy bottoms. Its bright red or orange coloration helps it stand out. Yet, it has developed the ability to blend into its surroundings when threatened, making it resilient and adaptable.

Deep-dwelling species like the Giant Pink Sea Star prefer the quiet, dark seabed. These starfish are found moving across the ocean floor, searching for prey like sponges and other slow-moving animals. The Velcro Star is known for its smooth, fluid movement. Their tube feet glide effortlessly over different surfaces in a coordinated, wave-like pattern. This technique lets it navigate tricky terrains, such as rocky crevices and dense kelp beds, with agility and speed. Its graceful movement, combined with a varied diet of algae, small invertebrates, and detritus, makes the Velcro Star highly adaptable across Pacific marine habitats.

The Bat Star, are often found in tide pools using their arms to sense the world around them. Each species has found a way to survive and thrive, whether braving the harsh intertidal zone, navigating the deep sea, or at home in tide pools.

Who needs a Brain?

Starfish have a decentralized nervous system rather than a central brain. This system consists of a nerve ring around their mouth, which connects to radial nerves running down each arm. Each arm acts independently, allowing the starfish to respond to its environment without a central control center.

The radial nerves help the starfish detect changes in temperature, light, touch, and the presence of chemicals in the water. Starfish may not have eyes like ours, but their keen sense of their surroundings helps them survive and thrive in a complex and sometimes harsh environment. Through research, conservation efforts, and sustainable practices, we may ensure that these celestial emblems of the ocean continue to thrive.

Starfish Lifecycle

The lifecycle of a starfish begins with species releasing vast clouds of sperm and eggs into the water, allowing fertilization to occur freely in the open sea. Once these eggs are hatched, starfish begin life as tiny, free-swimming larvae called bipinnaria. The larvae look nothing like their star-shaped adult selves. They resemble translucent creatures with cilia that help them move. Feed on microscopic plankton, life is perilous for these young starfish. They drift with the currents, exposed to predators and other dangers, with only a fraction progressing to the next development stage. They gradually transform into brachiolaria larvae, developing the first signs of the star-like body.

After months of drifting, the larvae transform dramatically, settling onto the seafloor and developing into juvenile starfish. This stage is crucial as they switch from a free-swimming lifestyle to one anchored to the ocean floor. Once settled, they start to look more like the familiar star-shaped adults, with their tube feet ready to help them move and search for food. Different species have their unique spawning behaviors. The Sunflower Sea Star, known for its speed and many arms, can produce thousands of eggs simultaneously, increasing the chances that some will survive despite the high predation risk. In contrast, the Leather Star releases fewer eggs throughout the season, spreading their reproductive efforts. Starfish have surprisingly long lifespan. The Red Sea Star lives up to 20 years. Their longevity allows them to play a vital role in maintaining the balance of their ecosystems. Each stage of their lifecycle, from tiny drifting larvae to powerful adult predators, is a testament to their resilience, intricately linked to the currents and tides.

Wasting Disease

Starfish wasting disease

Sea stars are adapted to withstand harsh conditions, like as pounding waves, intense heat, and dry low tides. However, during the 2014-2016 marine heatwave, ocean temperatures made them more susceptible to sea star wasting disease causing a populations decline from Mexico to Alaska. Sea star wasting disease (SSWD) is a condition that causes lesions, limb loss, and disintegration. It has been linked to Sea Star-associated Densovirus (SSaDV). Researchers have found higher concentrations of this virus in sick sea stars compared to healthy ones. The virus attacks their tissues, breaking down the body and spreading through shared habitats and even the water. This has been especially devastating for the Sunflower Sea Star. By 2021, it was estimated that up to 90% of the West Coast Sunflower Sea Star population were lost due to this disease. As a primary predators of sea urchins, their absence has led to a surge in urchin populations.  Sea urchins began to overgraze kelp forests, resulting in "urchin barrens," areas where kelp has been decimated, leading to the loss of shelter and food for fish and invertebrates.  This imbalance's ripple effects highlight how crucial sea stars are to maintaining a healthy ecosystem. Their decline affects the immediate species they prey on and can lead to broader shifts, impacting the entire marine food web. Researchers are exploring solutions including breeding disease-resistant sea stars. Some facilities have raised sea stars in captivity and released them into the wild, hoping to restore populations and introduce more resilient individuals. While challenges remain, efforts continue to understand this devastating disease.

As keystone species, starfish play a critical role in aquatic ecosystems. Today, starfish face numerous threats, from rising ocean temperatures and pollution to habitat loss and the spread of sea star wasting syndrome. Conservation efforts, such as breeding disease-resistant starfish and monitoring sea star health, are crucial to ensure these creatures continue to thrive.

Mountain Glory Lodge Opens Its Doors at Lake Cushman

Tucked into the quiet beauty of Washington’s Lake Cushman region, a new retreat is inviting guests to slow down, breathe deeply, and reconnect—with nature, with loved ones, and with themselves. Welcome to Mountain Glory Lodge, a thoughtfully designed getaway where modern comfort meets the restorative power of the Pacific Northwest.

Surrounded by towering evergreens and filtered lake views, the 2,200-square-foot, two-story home feels both expansive and intimate. From the moment you arrive—passing through a private gate and stepping onto the property—you get the sense that this is a place meant for unwinding.

Inside, the lodge blends warmth and intention. A live-edge wood dining table anchors the main living space, inviting long meals and even longer conversations. Nearby, a fully stocked kitchen—complete with a gas range, convection oven, and coffee and tea station—makes gathering effortless, whether you're preparing a casual breakfast or a celebratory dinner.

The home comfortably sleeps six guests across three bedrooms, including two private king suites and a third room featuring a queen bed with a twin XL bunk. Downstairs, a game room adds flexibility (and fun), with a trundle bed and queen pull-out sofa ready for extra guests. It’s a layout that works equally well for families, couples traveling together, or small retreats.

In the main-floor master suite, a spa-like bathroom offers a daily ritual worth savoring: a walk-in shower with dual luxury shower heads, designed to feel more like a boutique hotel than a cabin in the woods.

But it’s outside where Mountain Glory Lodge truly shines.

A sweeping, two-level wraparound deck extends the living space into the landscape. Here, mornings begin with coffee and birdsong, while evenings unfold around the custom outdoor BBQ area, where a Weber grill and Blackstone griddle make cooking part of the experience. A smokeless firepit flickers nearby, and a soft-style hot tub offers a place to soak under the stars.

For those craving activity, the property delivers more than expected. A lighted pickleball court, basketball setup, and classic yard games like cornhole and ladderball create easy opportunities for play. Inside, a pool table and game room keep the energy going, while a collection of yoga equipment, free weights, and even a massage table cater to guests looking to recharge more intentionally.

Despite its many amenities, Mountain Glory Lodge never loses sight of its purpose: to create space. Space to disconnect from the rush of daily life. Space to reconnect with what matters. Space to imagine what’s next.

With modern touches like keyless entry, smart TVs, Bluetooth surround sound, heated floors, and mini-split AC units, the home ensures comfort in every season. And yet, it’s the quieter details—the naturescape fountain, the filtered lake views, the hush of the surrounding forest—that linger most.

Mountain Glory Lodge is now welcoming guests and already booking quickly. For those seeking a Pacific Northwest escape that balances style, substance, and soul, this new Lake Cushman property might just be the place to get a little lost—and find something meaningful along the way.

Rates:
FRI • SAT • SUN $500 A NIGHT
MON - THU $350 A NIGHT
A $250 Cleaning Fee will be Applied to Each Stay

Step back in time To the Matlock Old Timer’s Fair

The first weekend in May an army of dedicated volunteers from the tiny Mason County town of Matlock transform their local school grounds and invite attendees to step back to simpler time of homemade pies, tractor rides and country dances.

This Rockwellesque celebration is the perfect way to get your family back into the swing of community events!

The Fair provides fun for the whole family and admission is free. Delicious country fair food – especially the homemade pies (try a piece and take home the whole pie) and a community welcome are the hallmarks of this decades old tradition.

Enjoy living forestry and farming historical displays, craft and historical exhibits and find your feet tapping to the live music on two stages. One stage is indoor, with comfortable seating warm and out of the rain should a May shower visit the event.

The fair celebrates Matlock’s heritage in the timber industry, with draft horses, early day machines and motors as well as  blacksmithing and an entire gym filled with antique booths. In addition enjoy kids’ activities, hand-crafted items, historical events, agricultural events, food, a firewood raffle, prizes and live music. 

Most of the displays are inside and surrounding the school buildings and be sure to stop by the John Tornow exhibit located anear the main stage.. This is the story an "Unsolved mystery," a century later. “Victim or Villain?” is the true story of events a century old. John Tornow lived in the Matlock area and his memory lives on her e and at the Matlock Historical Museum open during the Fair.

Other attractions include kids train rides, tractor pulls, plant and starter vegetable sale, crafts and antique booths, and live demonstrations of the Dolbeer steam donkey. Sunday features antique and classic cars , tractors and steam engines.

This year the event is hosted May 2-3 with the fair open 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM on Saturday and 10:00 AM – 4:00 PM on Sunday.

The event is located at 2987 Matlock-Brady Rd., about five miles south of the Matlock store and 15 miles north on Highway 8. For additional details visit the event page. FREE

Forest Festival celebrates more than four decades of community

A parade, a pageant, and Paul Bunyan, 82 years ago Mason County had it's own ideas about raising awareness about fire prevention. To help combat the destructive wildfires — while also promoting the importance of forests — Mason County hosted the first annual forest festival in the spring of 1945.

The history of the area is closely tied with logging operations in the area. In 1853, Michael T. Simmons built the first sawmill in Mason County on Mill Creek just south of Shelton. Around this same time, David Shelton staked a claim on a nearby inlet off Puget Sound. Sol G. Simpson came to the area and founded the Simpson Logging Company in the 1890s. The Simpson Company eventually expanded throughout the country.

Fire SafeTY & Timber Strong

The first Mason County Forest Festival showcased the value of timber, while demonstrating the importance of safeguarding the forests against fires. The ninth Forest Festival celebrated the 100th anniversary of logging operations in Mason County, and a monumental sign carved into a slice of Douglas fir was permanently dedicated in it’s location overlooking Shelton’s Oakland Bay. The sign can be still viewed today at Outlook Park.

People from all over Washington region flocked to Shelton to see “the dramatic Forest Pageant, the thrilling parade and the exciting contests of loggers falling, bucking, and tree topping."  On the festival’s final day in 1953 30,000 people — six times the regular population of the town — crowded into Shelton to watch the Paul Bunyan Parade."

Attending? Here’s What to expect:

In 2026 Forest Festival will  celebrate 82 years. With eight decades of courts and 1000s of volunteer hours this festival is a testament to the community's connection to its timber heritage, both as a natural resource to use and to protect. This year's festivities include classic elements that make this festival special as well as a few extra events.

Carnival
May 28 - May 31 | Grove & First, Shelton
Fun rides, games, and delicious fair food for all ages to enjoy.

Goldsborough Creek Run
May 30, 6:30 AM | Railroad Ave, Shelton
Different start times and age levels, start Forest Festival Saturday with a little cardio.

Fire Station Pancake Breakfast
May 30, 7 - 11 AM | 122 W Franklin St, Shelton
Pre-parade breakfast to support the local fire department.

Family & Pet Parade before the Paul Bunyan Grand Parade
May 30, 10:30 AM | Railroad Ave, Shelton
Everyone is welcome to participate in the Family parade before the Grand parade features colorful floats, marching bands, goups & businesses.

Logging Show & Vendor Showcase
May 30, 12 PM | Loop Field, Shelton
Food, crafts, vendors and a tdisplay of forestry skills, including log rolling, and axe throwing.

Rockin' The Forest Live Music and Dancing
May 30, 6 PM | OurCU, Olympic Ave, Shelton
All ages live music to keep the energy high and entertain festival-goers before the fireworks show.

Fireworks Show (Pending crowd-sourcing fundraiser)
May 30, 10 PM | Wallace Kneeland Blvd area, Shelton
A spectacular evening display lighting up the sky.

Shelton Car Show Off
May 31, 10-3 PM  | Olympic Hwy
Supports the NJROTC cadets’ leadership program and activities. Registration 8 -11AM.

For more information about the 80th anniversary Forest Festival and how to plan your visit, click the link below!

Fresh Shellfish from the Source

You’ve heard it before – those dang months with the “r.” Well, technically local oyster farmers don’t agree, bivalves have a much longer season, Some of the best shucks are in May – but there is something to be said for a fall or spring oyster over a “peak of the summer” one. That’s why March and April are the perfect time to follow the shellfish trail and visit local farms that grow the food you love.

In Search of Perfection

Want to meet the farmers that wake up on the night tides to bring you the perfect oyster, clam or geoduck? Check out these farms on and around Hood Canal!

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Capital Oysters & Seattle Shellfish

South Puget Sound | capitaloyster.com

5th generation oyster farmer, Tom Bloomfield, tide tumbles Capital oysters that are suspended off the ground. The growing process results in a smooth, super deep shell as each oyster captures the essence of the beautiful ocean waters, free of sand and zero muddy tastes.

Chelsea Farms & Olympia Oyster Bar

Chelsea Farms | photo:poppi photography

Eld & Totten Inlet
Chelsea Farms is a current working model of environmental sustainability. They have made a priority of farming the Olympia Oyster, a native oyster to Olympia, that was on it’s way to extinction. Specialties include their Chelsea Gem, Bonita, and Olympia Oysters, along with fresh clams and geoduck. Visit their Oyster bar in downtown Olympia to get the ultimate local seafood experience!

Let’s Go:

CHELSEA FARMS OYSTER BAR
222 CAPITOL WAY N, OLYMPIA, WA 98501
Phone: (360) 915-7784
Hours: TUES-FRI 11AM-9PM, SAT 10AM - 10PM | SUN 10AM - 9PM
menu

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The Fjord Oyster Bank

Sea Nymph Oysters

Hoodsport & Hammersley | southsoundoysters.com

24341 N Hwy 101 Hoodsport | (360) 877-2102

For the last decade and a half the Hansen family has been raising oysters and clams on South Puget Sound's nutrient rich waterway, Hammersley Inlet. Through a tumble bag and a bag to beach process these oysters have distinct merrior as well as shape profiles resulting from their growth process despite being in the geographic. The tumble bag Hemingways have a sweet cucumber finish while the beach finished Sea Nymphs have a kelpy taste. Hemingway Sweets roll in deeper water and have a deep cup, sweet flavor and a full-body crunch. Hemingways (coined from Ernest Heminway's famous oyster quote) as well as Sea Nymphs, are available for raw and grilled preparation at their Hoodsport café and Oyster Bar, Fjord Oyster Bank.

Let’s Go:

Fjord Oyster Bank Oyster Bar
24341 N Hwy 101, Hoodsport
Phone: (360) 877-2102
Hours: THUR-SAT 10 AM-8PM, SUN10AM - 6PM | Closed MON-WED
menu

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Hama Hama Oyster Farm

Lilliwaup, Hood Canal
A few years ago the Hama Hama Oyster Co opened their Oyster Saloon in Liliwaup. This high energy destination serves oysters pulled from the last tide and prepared to order with an ever changing menu of seasonal local ingredients. In their retail shop you can purchase a variety of their Hood Canal product including salmon and oysters smoked on site. Hama Hama is a 5th generation family run farm with a reputation for quality and environmental mindfulness.

Let’s Go:

HAMA HAMA OYSTER CO
35846 US-101, Lilliwaup, WA 98555
PHONE: (360) 877-5811
Spring Hours: Farm Store Daily 9:30 to 5:30
Oyster Saloon Check website for details
Shellfish is available in their retail store, Saloon and at parent restaurants throughout the Northwest. Product also available online and shipped directly to your home.

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Olympic Oyster Co. & Mike’s Beach Resort

Eldon, Hood Canal
Third-generation farmers, Matthew and Sara are serious about producing some award winning oysters on site for market and available at restaurants as far away as New York. Guests staying on the active farm aka Mike’s Beach Resort have first dibs on some of the freshest oysters on the fjord!  

Let’s Go:

Mike’s Beach Resort
38470 N US Highway 101, Lilliwaup, WA 98555
Phone (360) 877-5324
Waterfront cabins and rooms, with view of the canal.

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Taylor Shellfish

South Puget Sound and British Columbia
Stop in at Taylor Shellfish’s headquarters and visit their market near Shelton. Taylor’s specialties include the famed Kumamoto (sweet fruity flavor) and the Virginica (Crisp, briny, and buttery). The company has been farming oysters on Puget Sound since the 1890’s when great-grandfather Justin Taylor began farming Olympias. Five generations later, the company’s product line includes worldwide export of geoduck, clams, and mussels along with oysters.

Let’s Go:

TAYLOR SHELLFISH RETAIL STORE
130 SE Lynch RD Shelton WA, 98584 
PHONE: (360) 432-3300
Hours: Open for Monday - Sunday: 10am - 6:00pm; Closed all major holidays
Shellfish is also available at one of their many locations throughout NW Washington. Product also available online and shipped directly to your home.

Explore The Glen — where adventure begins and comfort meets the beauty of Washington’s Hood Canal.

Nestled between forest and fjord, The Glen is your ultimate base camp for outdoor escapes, weekend retreats, and unforgettable getaways. With 14 hotel rooms (including pet-friendly options), luxury suites, a vacation rental, and full RV hookups, you’re perfectly positioned to explore the Olympic National Park, Staircase, Lake Cushman, and beyond. From free coffee and waterfront jacuzzis to deep-water diving and forest trails, The Glen blends rustic charm with modern amenities. Whether you're hiking, kayaking, oyster tasting, or just relaxing by the fire pit—this is where your story begins.

5 amazing hikes around Hood Canal

Award winning local guidebook author, Craig Romano, shared 25 of his top area hikes with us in a handy “stuff-in-your-glovebox guide,” here are a few of the many hikes that are open and awaiting your adventure! Welcome to the #wildsideWA.

Tighten your laces!

1. Murhut Falls
(Olympic National Forest)

Hidden in a lush narrow ravine, Murhut Falls were long unknown to many in the outside world. But all that changed upon the construction of a well-built and easy to hike trail. This two-tiered waterfall that plummets 130 feet has become a favorite cascade for many Olympic Peninsula hikers. The trail starts by following an old well-graded logging road. As you work your way toward the falls, its roar will signal that you’re getting closer. Reach the trail’s end and behold the impressive falls crashing before you. The upper falls drops more than 100 feet while the lower one crashes about 30 feet.

• Difficulty: Easy, 300 feet elevation gain, 1.6 miles

• Permits: Not required

• Kid and Dog Friendly: Yes

2. DuckabusH River trail
(Olympic National Forest)

The Duckabush River starts in the heart of the Olympic Mountains and flows through a deep verdant valley on its way to Hood Canal. Duckabush River Trail travels near and along the river for more than 20 miles terminating at Marmot Lake in the heart of Olympic National Park. At a little over 3 miles you will come to a ledge with a spectacular view east down the river valley. On a clear day you can see all the way to the Cascades.

• Highlights: Old-growth forest, low elevation wilderness valley, backpacking opportunities

• Distance: Moderate, 10.6 miles R/T  Elevation gain: 2150 feet

• Permits: NW Forest Pass /Interagency Pass

• Kid & Dog Friendly: Yes

Duckabush River

3. LENA LAKES TRAIL
(OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST & PARK)

With all the fire activity this iconic trail system remains far removed from the bustle. The Lena Lakes are located above the Hamma Hamma valley. Despite having the same name, the two lakes have distinct differences. The lower lake is a simple, family and pet-friendly walk through old, tall trees in Olympic National Forest. The upper lake is a tough climb to a beautiful high area in Olympic National Park. The lower lake can be busy with hikers on a summer Saturday while the upper lake offers more solitude. Access to both lakes is the same.

• Highlights: Old-growth forest, water!

• Distance: Lower: 6 miles R/T; Upper: 14 miles R/T

• Elevation gain: Lower: 1225 feet; Upper : 4100 feet

• Difficulty: Lower Lake: moderate; Upper Lake: strenuous  Permits: Northwest Forest or Interagency Pass

• Hiking Season: Lower Lake: March to Dec; Upper Lake: July to November

• Notes: Camping (no fires) at Upper Lake requires National Park Wilderness Camping Permit (contact Olympic National Park, Wilderness Information Center (360) 565-3100)

• Kid-Friendly: Yes Lower Lake; no Upper Lake   Dog-Friendly: yes Lower Lake; prohibited Upper Lake

4. spider lake
(Olympic National Forest)

A long slender lake tucked within a narrow valley on the Skokomish–Satsop River divide, Spider is graced with groves of ancient giant old-growth forest. The trail around the lake is a remnant of a longer trail that once traversed miles of primeval trees. Most of those trees have since been logged, and the trail truncated to the lake. The remaining trail has since been restored and the forests on the surrounding hillsides are regenerating nicely.

Highlights: Old-growth forest  Distance: 2 mile R/T Difficulty: Easy Elevation gain: 250 feet 
Permits: None
Kid and Dog Friendly: Yes

5. Schafer Forest Trail
(Schafer State Park)

Tucked along the East Fork Satsop River in extreme southwestern Mason County, Schafer State Park is off-the-beaten path. While this park is far from population centers, it was a thriving spot for many years. In 1872 the Schafer Family came from Wisconsin to homestead here. Three of their sons, Peter, Albert and Hubert begin logging the homestead in the 1890s. They donated this parcel to the state in 1924, and it continued to host many large company gatherings as well as other groups. Today the park is much quieter, but families still come here to gather. The park’s trails however tend to remain pretty peaceful.

Highlights: Historic homestead; trail along Satsop River; salmon spawning creek and estuary        
Distance: 1.3 mile loop Elevation gain: 75 feet
Difficulty: Easy Permits: Discover Pass Kid & Dog Friendly: Yes

This is only a SMALL sampling of the amazing hikes available in the area! Check out the hikes link for a full list of places to explore, visit the waterfalls trail for a comprehensive list of year-round waterfall destinations — or pick up or download a copy of Romano’s Top 25 Hikes!

Roam Wolfdog Sanctuary Offers Education Tours

Story: Jeff Slakey

Amongst the woods outside Shelton, off Highway 101, the ROAM Wolfdog Sanctuary provides a home for some of the most misunderstood animals in the world—wolfdogs. On a sprawling 40-acre property, the sanctuary educates the public, advocates for conservation, and provides a safe, enriching life.

photo credit: ROAM Wolfdog Sanctuary

Every wolfdog at ROAM has a story, and most share a similar beginning. They were bred to be pets, then abandoned or surrendered when their owners realized they weren't suited for a domestic lifestyle. "All of these animals here were bred to be somebody's pet," explains Jody Woolard, sanctuary's founder. "They want to mimic something that looks like it just walked out of Yellowstone Park, but they require a lifestyle that most people aren't prepared for."

Unlike dogs, wolfdogs have wild instincts that make them difficult to manage in a home environment. They require large enclosures, an all-raw diet, and specialized care. Many are high-content wolfdogs, meaning they have over 90% wolf DNA. While some enjoy meeting people, others take their time warming up to new faces.

One of the biggest misconceptions about wolfdogs is that they make good guard dogs. In reality, they tend to be skittish rather than protective. "They are not house pets," Woolard says. "They need to be outside. They need enclosures with eight-foot-tall fencing and dig guards so they can't escape."

Their diet is also unique. "They eat raw," says animal caretaker Reanna Warren. "Chicken, steak, pork—sometimes beef, but they're picky. They won't touch boneless, skinless chicken, and if it's ground beef, it has to be frozen."

ROAM is not only a shelter—it's a permanent home for its residents. Each enclosure spans about an acre, giving the animals space to roam while protecting the public. "We try to create an environment for them that is as natural as possible," Woolard says. "In the winter, we get snow, which they love. And in the summer, the forest keeps it from getting too hot."

Community plays a role in keeping the sanctuary running. Volunteers come to help clean enclosures and construct new habitats. Food donations come from local grocery stores and hunters. For visitors, a tour of ROAM is a chance to see these animals up close and learn about wolves' vital role in the ecosystem. "Wolves keep deer and elk populations in check, which benefits many other plant and animal species," explains Woolard. "But in some regions, they're still being hunted. Nearly 1,000 wolves in the Northern Rocky Mountains were killed last year alone."

Touring ROAM

Tours at ROAM last about 90 minutes and offer an up-close look at the lives of these animals. Visitors can witness a playful interaction between Issabel and Kovu, a bonding moment between Pretty Boy Floyd and Felony, or even hear the pack's haunting howls echoing through the trees. "Two of our neighbors leave their windows open at night just to hear the howling," Woolard shares.

As a nonprofit 501(c)(3) organization, ROAM relies on donations and sponsorships to continue its mission. "Every year, wolfdogs are abandoned, rescued, or euthanized because people purchased an animal they weren't prepared to care for," says Woolard. Sponsorships cover food costs, medical care, and facility maintenance, ensuring the wolfdogs can live out their life safely and comfortably.

Another way you can help is by spreading awareness about ROAM, the wolfdogs, and the importance of conservation. "Education is key," Woolard says. "The more people understand these animals, the better we can protect both them and their wild counterparts."

So, if you're a wildlife enthusiast, an advocate for conservation, or someone looking for a unique experience in Mason County, a visit to ROAM Wolfdog Sanctuary is sure to leave you with a newfound respect for these remarkable animals.

To learn more or schedule a tour, visit their website, roamwithus.org or come to ROAM with the pack. The Guided Educational Tours at Roam cater to wildlife enthusiasts, animal lovers, students, and families seeking an enriching and educational experience. This exclusive opportunity allows guests to engage with wolfdogs in a meaningful way and support the sanctuary's mission of promoting coexistence and understanding between humans and wildlife.

Head to the Mount Walker Summit

Craig Romano | story

The Easternmost peak in the Olympic Mountains, Mount Walker offers a commanding view of Dabob Bay sparkling below and the Seattle skyline shimmering across Puget Sound. The close up of massive Mount Constance, the third highest peak in the Olympic Mountains is pretty darn impressive too. But the real joy to hiking this trail is ambling through its profuse clusters of rhododendrons. Hit the trail to Mount Walker in May or June for an ascent up a purple mountain majesty!

Hit the Trail

While a dirt road winds four miles up the north and east side of Mount Walker allowing folks to drive to the views—hiking to them is far more rewarding. The trail ascends the mountain’s thickly forested west side far away from the road. But if the thought of busting your rump up a mountain only to be greeted by fresh-smelling folks who just popped out of their vehicle doesn’t appeal to you—then consider a hike up Walker when the road is gated and closed to vehicles. It’s also during that time that you can consider a loop hike by returning on the road.

On the rare occasions that snow accumulates on this low Olympic peak, the road makes for an excellent snowshoe or cross country ski route.

From the unimposing trailhead immediately begin climbing through a tunnel of rhododendrons under a uniform canopy of second-growth cedars and hemlocks. Washington’s state flower, the Pacific (or coast) rhododendron, grows in profusion along the steep dry slopes of Mount Walker. For much of the year the rhodies merely add a layer of dark green to the forest understory.

Pacific Rhododendron

But come late spring this hardy shrub begins to blossom, speckling the surrounding firs and hemlocks with rosy-purple bouquets. By June, vibrant violet bell-shaped blossoms ring throughout the emerald forest.

Interestingly, that although the Pacific Rhododendron is Washington’s state flower, it’s not very widespread in the Evergreen State. It primarily grows along the east slopes of the Olympics near Hood Canal, the Kitsap Peninsula and a few pockets on the western slopes of the Cascades.

It’s far more distributed in Oregon and grows profusely in the state’s southern Coastal Mountains as well as along California’s north coast. A clover, a flower more widespread in Washington, but not nearly as grand and showy as the rhododendron, almost became the state’s official flower back in 1892. But the rhodie overwhelmingly won the vote by thousands to represent Washington in the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair. It wasn’t until 1959 however when the state legislature made the rhodie officially the state’s flower. Mount Walker is one of the best places in Washington to appreciate this beautiful flower.

The trail climbs steeply. Occasionally take a break and look up to see if you can locate any of the old wire and insulators that once serviced a fire tower on the summit. After about 1.5 miles small ledges begin to break the monotony of the forest and tease with limited views. The grade then eases. Finally after 2 miles and nearly 2000 feet of climbing reach the North Summit viewpoint, which was the site of a fire lookout from 1931—1967.

Enjoy good but limited views west and north here. Then head to the South Summit (dogs must be leashed at the summits) by walking the graveled Summit Road for 0.4 mile to a picnic area and then following a 0.1 mile trail to a breathtaking panoramic view of Puget Sound.

Stare straight down to Quilcene Bay, Dabob Bay and the Toanodos Peninsula. Across the sparkling waters Green and Gold Mountains rise on the Kitsap Peninsula. Locate the Seattle skyline east of Kitsap. When clouds are absent or high in the sky, Mount Rainier adds a snowy backdrop to this beautiful scene. And if you’re here in June, the view will be framed with fragrant purple boughs.

Mount Walker

Distance: 5.0 miles roundtrip
Elevation Gain: 2050 feet
High Point: 2805 feet
Difficulty: difficult
Snow free: April—December
Trailhead Pass Needed: None

Notes: From November 1 until March 31 FR 2730 is gated. During this time park away from the gate near US 101 and walk .3 mile to the trailhead. Do not block the gate, park in the road, or block any private driveways.

GPS waypoints: Trailhead: N47 46.554 W122 54.854 | Summit picnic area: N47 47.100 W122 54.077

Features: Exceptional views of Hood Canal; historic fire tower site; one of the finest trails in the Olympics for rhododendron blooms

Land Agency Contact:

Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene, (360) 765-2200, http://www.fs.usda.gov/olympic

Recommended Guidebook:

Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula 2nd edition (Romano, Mountaineers Books)

Trailhead directions:

From Shelton follow US 101 north for 47 miles. From Quilcene drive US 101 south for 5 miles) to just north of milepost 300. Turn right onto Mount Walker Road (FR 2730) and proceed 0.3 mile to the trailhead.

Guest Columnist:

Craig Romano

From forest ranger, to history teacher and now a full-time outdoor writer, Romano developed a love of the natural world growing up in rural New Hampshire. Romano has written more than 25 outdoor guide books including "Winter Hikes of Western Washington” (Mountaineers Books, 2009) and "Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula." He lives in Mt. Vernon with his wife and son.

The Waddington Brothers to Perform in Shelton

Live On Stage, Inc. and Mason County Community Concert Association announce Sibling Bluegrass/Western band as part of their 2025-2026 Concert Season.

Join the Waddington Brothers as they perform iconic Bluegrass and Western music with jaw-dropping authenticity in a live concert at Shelton High School Auditorium in Shelton, Washington on Friday, February 13, 2026 at 7:00 p.m.  This is the third concert of our 25-26 season. Tickets to the remaining concerts in the 25-26 season are available at a discounted rate of $80 for adults. Families with children under 18 add just ten more dollars for all the children for the season. Single tickets to this performance are $30 (adults). Children under 18 are free with a paying adult. Check out our website www.masoncountyconcerts.org for information on season passes.

The Waddington Brothers, a band of four brothers from rural North Dakota, perform what they live: music that is real to them, that takes listeners on a journey through the heart of the American West. Seth, Ethan, Jacob and Job skillfully blend cowboy and bluegrass music, creating a style that is timelessly classic and yet refreshingly new and unique.

For more information call 360-490-1098 or visit us at www.masoncountyconcerts.org.

BIRDS OF A FEATHER FLOCK TOGETHER

H/T Tracing The Fjord | Winter ‘25 | STELLA WENSTOB | olympicbirdtrail.com

Those folks obsessed with bird identification? Yes, birders—and they’re far cooler than the stereotype suggests.

Once caricatured as binocular-toting nerds with overstuffed packs and dubious dried banana chips, today’s birders are more likely carrying a smartphone than a color-coded guidebook. Nerdy, it turns out, is in. Modern birding trades paper for sleek apps like iBird and iNaturalist, making it easy to identify, log, and even crowdsource sightings—all while contributing to real scientific understanding.

In the Pacific Northwest, with its remarkable variety of birdlife, birding is about far more than snacks and checklists. It’s an inviting way to slow down, look up, and connect with the natural world.

Getting Started

The Audubon Society is a great place to start if you’re just dipping your webbed foot into the vast waters of birding. Their website offers a free birding app, engaging articles, and access to hundreds of local chapters—five in the Olympic-Kitsap Peninsula area alone—that host birding classes, walks, and events.

One of those events is the longest-running bird census in the world: the Christmas Bird Count. Now entering its 125th year, the count gathers data from volunteer birders across North and South America. It was developed as a replacement for the old holiday “side hunt,” a competitive tradition among hunters that focused on the most game taken over the season.

Learning From the Nest

If the weather is too nasty to head outside, stay in your nest and feather it with avian knowledge. The Audubon Society offers online courses, including interactive Zoom lectures with local experts. The Cornell Lab of Ornithology provides more in-depth, accredited bird identification courses, along with plenty of solid free basics.

The Washington Ornithological Society and American Birding Association also offer a digital, up-to-date version of A Birder’s Guide to Washington. While it doesn’t help with identification, it provides an exhaustive list of where to find species and helps plan productive birding adventures.

Birding Mason County

If you’re ready to venture out in wintery weather, Mason County is teeming with migratory and year-round resident birds. Hit the trails and start scanning the skies, vegetation, and waterways.

Pack binoculars, a scope, digital camera, or smartphone (with iBird and Audubon maps downloaded). Old-school works too—just a notepad and pencil. Wear good walking shoes and weather-appropriate clothing.

Almost every green space—backyard or state park—offers birding potential. To honor the spirit of road trips and the hallowed practice of list-making, here are a few favorite local birding haunts.

For the Birds

Hilburn Preserve

The Capitol Land Trust Hilburn Preserve, just off Highway 101 west of Shelton, features an easy half-mile loop beside the lively Goldsborough Creek. The wooded habitat is ideal for spotting woodland birds such as Red-breasted Sapsucker, Hutton’s Vireo, Pacific Wren, and Cedar Waxwing.

Bayshore Preserve

Leaving Hilburn, head east on Railroad Avenue toward downtown Shelton, then north on Olympic Highway South. Turn right onto Highway 3 (East Pine Street), which follows Oakland Bay to the Bayshore Preserve.

This Capitol Land Trust property is part of the Great Washington State Birding Trail. Oak savannas border the shoreline and Johns Creek outflow. Peregrine Falcons have been spotted perched in the oaks, while Great Blue Herons frequent the open areas. Scan the bay for waterfowl diving in warmer waters.

Mary Theler Wetlands Nature Preserve

Located just outside Belfair (22641 WA-3), this 139-acre preserve protects estuarine habitat along the Union River delta. Marshlands, meadows, forests, and tidal waters support impressive wildlife diversity.

Five trails highlight different habitats, some with views of the southern Olympic Mountains. The River Estuary Trail—built atop breached dikes—offers sightings of river otters, Belted Kingfishers, and Great Blue Herons. Pools host Northern Pintail, Green-winged Teal, Common Merganser, and a wide range of shorebirds. Bald Eagles are commonly seen.

Twanoh State Park & Skokomish River Delta

Backtrack along Highway 106 toward Hood Canal to reach Twanoh State Park. With over 182 acres of forest and shoreline, it offers both terrestrial and marine birding. The 2.5-mile inland trail is reliable for Red Crossbills and Brown Creepers.

Continuing through Union brings you to the Skokomish River delta, rich with waterfowl such as Mallard, Northern Pintail, Red-breasted Merganser, and large flocks of American Wigeon. Bald Eagles are frequent here.

Hood Canal Corridor

Heading north on Highway 101 keeps you alongside Hood Canal, with strong birding stops at Potlatch State Park, Lilliwaup Creek, Eagle Creek, and Jorsted Creek.

At Jorsted Creek, pilings from an old log dump serve as roosts for all three species of cormorants. Lacking water-repellent oils, these birds are often seen perched with wings spread to dry.

The Hamma Hamma River estuary is another productive area and home to a nearby Great Blue Heron rookery.

Dosewallips State Park

The final stop on this list, Dosewallips State Park spans more than 1,000 acres of river, estuary, shoreline, and mature forest. Known for Roosevelt Elk and curious seals offshore, it also supports a wide range of bird species.

The North Tidal Trail crosses marshes and offers excellent winter views of migrating Trumpeter Swans.

The parks and preserves of the Pacific Northwest offer outstanding birding opportunities. Birds of a feather flock together—and birders are never far behind.

For more information on fjord birding, visit olympicbirdtrail.com.